Recent content by skibb

I used roasted peanut pieces (like from nuts.com) that you would see as ice cream toppings. 10#/bbl is a good starting spot - put it in bags in cold brite tank for 24-48 hours. Any longer and you risk extracting bitterness/tanic character

My typical fermentation schedule with 34/70: Pitch and ferment @ 60F and when attenuation hits about 50% let it free rise to 68. Primary is usually done and passes VDK in 6-7 days. Then crash and lager. 34/70 is not a typical or even a true lager strain, it is crazy clean even at primary 70f +...

Yes amburana is extremely intense and can overpower quick. For reference I've brewed Imperial stouts and after 1 week in the barrel they have picked alllllmost too much character. The good thing with the cubes is you can go less volume/surface area and check on it every few days if need be...

I just degassed and measured a sample of Piraat with a precision hydrometer and FG came out to be 1.017... *edit: website says OG is 22 P - so that means it should be finishing at 3.5 or 1.014 to get the ABV of 10.5% Seems the recipe has changed a bit in the last decade.

Here is a great overview of the style and how modern day West Coast is composed - definitely reflects lots of things said in this thread. https://beerandbrewing.com/podcast-episode-286/

Speaking as a commercial brewer and talking with others in the industry - we do what we can to avoid hop creep/jamming up fermenters for longer than we need to. For West Coast IPA, a lot of us are mashing low and trying to make the beer as fermentable as possible so when hop enzymes enter the...

I do not believe it helps it flocc any better - I would tend to notice a drift towards SO4 after about 3 repitches/generations so I would only use it a few times before restarting (which is fine cuz dry yeast is cheap). The ester profile was more stone fruit and less bubblegum - honestly a bit...

Back when I first started brewing Hazies I did all SO4 - it definitely makes a solid hazy beer, especially with a near-terminal dry hop (and it floccs so well you can harvest before hand!). I moved away from it because of the overwhelming bubblegum character/ester I got from the yeast. It...

I've taken a chico strain right past 20% ABV (ala staggered sugar additions). I use US05 (another chico) for all my imperial stouts and haven gotten it to 15% no problem. Most yeast strains can really push the limit if you treat em well enough. The only yeast that has ever given me crap is S-04...

I regularly use brewer's crystals at my brewery to sure up efficiency inconsistencies and will throw a bag or two into a big ass beer along with DME to hit those gravities north of 1.140's (This is after a 6 hour boil). I am looking for a lot of residual body, so I tend to stay away from the...

For sure that is one way to do it and yeast management can definitely be a money saver. However, the ease and effectiveness of dry yeast is just too great to not mention.

Definitely ambitious and you really should take @kevin58 advice and brew something more simple before jumping into a big 15% abv territory beer. The issue with extract, although it is great for homebrewing, is that it can taste like extract. And when you are using 2-3 times as much as you would...

I am not trying to clone or mimic any of these beers water profiles - I am not sure why you think that is the case. This is simply data I can match against my own beer's results with, compare with tasting notes, and see how they contrast. For example, early on I was adding CaCl to both my mash...

If you get your beer tested at the same lab by the same means you can compare and adjust, retest, see what changed, adjust, etc. I have found data like this, and of my beers I've tested, helpful in deciding where to add my salt additions, and which salts to add.

I would argue it is helpful information (like seeing NaCl in HFS beers and seeing such a high amount of chloride in Everett), especially if you are getting your beers analyzed and can compare numbers.