Recent content by sjanz

If you have already tried checking for leaks using the soapy water trick, you may have a bad gauge. Do you have a lot of head space in your keg?

I'm also curious to hear how this turns out. I will ask a few questions at my LHBS next week and get back with you. They are pretty good at working on clones.

This is good info. When dry hopping in secondary, would a 6 gallon carboy be ok or would you move down to a 5 gallon?

Be sure to keep at least a beer or two for later on down the road. It's fun to compare your very first batch to let's just say batch #10 or so. Happy brewing!

I may try adding gypsum to my next batch. I'm thinking of using about 1tsp at the start of the boil for a 5 gallon batch. Does anyone have any experience using gypsum when trying to sharpen the bitterness and aroma of an IPA?

I was told by my local home brew shop that our water was ideal for brewing and that I didn't need to add any brewing salts for the most part. How do I get a water profile?

The last batch I used Safale US-05. I typically dry hop for a week in 2nd. I like west coast IPA's so I often times try to achieve citrus aroma and flavor.

would you recommend trying reverse osmosis water for a clean slate?

Thanks for the good info. The last batch I brewed was a 5 gallon batch that had a hop schedule of: 1 oz Magnum 60 minutes 1 oz Perle 30 minutes 3 oz Cascade 10 minutes 1 oz cascade at flameout

I really enjoy the hop aroma on an IPA. I have been brewing for a couple years now and I am having a hard time achieving that nice bitterness aroma in my pale ales. I have tried using various types/amounts of hops in the last 10 minutes of the boil along with at flameout and dry hopping in 2nd...

10 gallons Rye IPA 16950

5 gallons of Oatmeal Stout 16621

How sweet did this beer turn out? Did it have a strong fruit flavor to it? Also, you said that you tweaked the recipe. What did you tweak?