Recent content by sdugre

Wish I would have seen this thread before I blew through 6 oz in an IPA. Mine seems worse than grassy. Super vegetal with an almost pumpkin flesh flavor. Do you think these would be OK to bitter with in small quantities? I still have 10oz, but I don't want to ruin any more beers.

Check out this post: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/triclamp-heater-element-design-217575/index6.html#post2709094

Check out Quaffer's schematic: http://jansson.us/Brewing/ControlPanel_1_2.pdf Relay RE4 is a single pole double throw relay which selects between a hot leg and neutral depending on the position of the "rims power switch". For your application, you could replace the relay with a single pole...

The polarity doesn't matter. Bring your hot to one side and neutral to the other.

For my HLT, I use the PID alarm to protect against a failed SSR. The alarm contact is in series with the coil of the contactor and is set to drop out if the temperature goes above 180F.

It looks to me like your design would work, however you could accomplish the same thing with two DPST relays, one for each element. Just wire your element selector switch to switch the hot to the appropriate coil. If you do go with DPDT relay, pay attention to the rating on the normally closed...

Do you put the immersion chiller in the kettle during the boil (after the pre boil reading is taken) ? That could make your post boil volume reading look higher than it really is. What I found in my problem was that since I wasn't accounting for my boil volumes correctly (but not adjusting...

That's correct. With pumps, you're probably looking at about 28.5 amps. As far as what's "right" with regards to upgrading, I'm sure you'll get opinions on both sides of the coin. I'm personally in the "a thirty amp feeder is rated for thirty amps" camp. Of course, upgrading to 50A opens up...

Not sure about beersmith, but in beertools, pre boil volume is shown @ 212. If beerstools tells me I need 7.15 gal, I will collect 7 gal @ 140 since it will expand. Likewise, it shows post boil volume @ 68, so you need to correct for that too. Another thing to check: do you recirculate...

If you want 5500 watts, replace the element with one rated at 208V. Here's an example: http://www.comfortgurus.com/product_info.php/products_id/7089

I'm with you on going without the fuse, but I disagree on not using a resistor. I don't think its good practice to intentionally subject your wiring and e-stop contacts to a direct short circuit. In my experience, resistors are pretty reliable.

Is there a resister in series with the fuse? You need one to limit the current.

I don't think so, but someone else might be able to confirm. It fits a standard welding type O2 tank like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Cu-Ft-Oxygen-Cylinder-Tank-New-/350554684002?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item519eaffa62#ht_4071wt_907

I have a medical oxygen regulator, something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/H-M-Medical-Oxygen-Regulator-0-15-lpm-O2-Tank-Cyl-NEW-/150387905447?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2303d153a7#ht_1290wt_1152 I set it to 0.5 Lpm. Works great

I actually use pure O2 now, but always wondered how effective shaking was when I used to do it. I probably shook it for about a minute and a half or so.