Recent content by sarsnik

I emailed the manufacturer and they sent me the following: Material Component Percentage Aluminum 99% TPR 1% Anyone know what TPR is? I've been googling it without any success.

I was at the hardware store looking for ideas for a CIP ball type sprayer (cheap hopefully). The idea would be to have a dedicated cleaning 'lid' with a sprayer that could be used on both my keggles and fermenters. The options are somewhat limited since it will be driven by a chugger pump at a...

Yes you're correct, according to Palmer: So if you do want to try no sparge, make sure you rest long enough. Perhaps test to make sure conversion is complete.

Yes you can do this, it's called no sparge brewing. Your efficiency will suffer quite a bit, from what I've heard it'll be 50%-60%. If this isn't a issue for you, simply buy more grain. A sparge is a rinsing of the grains - if you don't sparge, as you drain the grains you'll leave sugar residue...

Perhaps giving a more detailed account of your mashing process would expose more potential problems. You held the mash temp at 152 for the 60 minutes -how long did it take to transfer to the kettle? Did you mash out? Did you batch or fly sparge? How long did it take to begin sparging after the...

Starters are used to develop more cells. Dry yeast has enough cells already - they only need to be 'woken up' by putting in some warm water. Search for some information on rehydrating dry yeast.

You normally don't need to make a starter for dried yeast. You can put it in warm water to check viability if your concerned.

Just a warning - apfelwein smells like ass when fermenting. Your dorm (not just your room) will likely smell like it. Your better off just ordering a prehopped beer kit that only requires mixing with hot water.

There shouldn't be an issue. CO2 is heavier than air, so there is effectively a blanket of CO2 on the surface of the wort. There's also enough CO2 produced to purge the vessel over the course of fermentation - there's a lot more than you might think.

Two things: There must be something wrong with your burner - I used to boil with the SP10 in 30 mins from 70F. I believe the blichmann is just a stainless version of the SQ14. The SQ14 might be cheaper.

Yeah there's too much variation for that information to be standard

Sorry, I misspoke - what are the lengths of your hoses? I'm trying to minimize heat loss and am trying to figure out how much to order.

Figures - I just ordered street elbows from you before these came in :(

What are the sizes of your hoses? Looking great.

If by bigger burner you mean larger diameter, then that would help provide even heat to prevent scorching during the mash. You still want to heat a mash gently and recirculate. More BTUs will help you boil faster. Consider this burner...