Recent content by rcm_rx7

Well when I woke up this morning it was back to a few scrambled characters, the same ones in my picture above. Using the encoder did not change that at all, a reset of the arduino fixed it. My arduino is powered through USB, and I measure a little over 5v at all points on the protoboard, though...

Thank you, that worked great! It even fixed the weird characters on my LCD for some strange reason. So is that filtering circuit for the encoder on your original wiring diagram not needed?

I have everything setup, and almost running right. I cannot figure out how to wire up my rotary encoder. I was able to figure everything else out based off of the wiring diagrams, but for my encoder it doesn't make any sense to me so far. My encoder has three pins (A,B, and common I assume)...

Just checked out your site, that is a damn nice controller setup you're selling! Half of my brewing enjoyment comes from building stuff and DIY, so this was more of a way to try something new and tinker with an STC-1000. I just built a brewpi for my fermenter so I'm not really needing the +, I...

Well I played the v1.0 lottery and lost. I ordered from Amazon (Lerway Tech) for $16. There's no version number printed on the PCB, but I don't see the pin header I need. I had an STC1000 that I bought four or five years ago and it's a v1.1. Should have just bought one from blackbox. Anyways...

So I finally finished my brew stand, I took a lot of inspiration from people here. Mine features a roll out cart on the bottom that holds my mash tun, it pushes back in to hide when not in use. It's a two tier setup. Full album of the build.

I found the best solution was to actually retain the outer portion (1/2" or so) of the plastic door shelf piece. I just used a utility knife to cut out the middle portion. This was after I tried unsuccessfully to attach the seal back onto the door BTW. I could not get it to seal very well.

Not sure if it makes a difference, but the original kal electric brewery used cork boards under the kettles to protect the wood. Considering how cheap they are I think I'll go that route. Probably won't make a difference though!

That's looks identical to my converted mini fridge. I was able to snap off the little plastic clips attaching the evaporator to the top. Then I carefully bent it down and flattened it out a bit. Just go slow, and make sure it doesn't start to kink. You can bend the tubing over something round...

Mine flashes the led for "cool" during the delay period. It will be a solid led when the relay is on.

I considered getting on or those controllers but it looks like they are only single stage, so you can't have a heating and cooling circuit. I guess the confusing instructions are another reason to ditch that controller.

You guys are right about the PID causing issues with the compressor. Although you can easily disable the PID function (and lose some fine tuning advantage). I think the best way to use this particular PID is to put the compressor on the alarm output, which can be set a few degrees away from your...

Looks good! What is the STC-1000 for? And how did you cut the square holes? Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

My new fermentation chamber is going to use a PID for heating and cooling. I like the PID function much better than my old STC-1000, which worked, but had temp swings. The alarm function will work fine, but you'll probably need another relay. And don't just buy the stc-1000, it doesn't have any...

Just a suggestion for heating. I use a small $10 space heater (Home Depot, Walmart, etc.) inside of my chamber, I use the lowest heat setting and keep the fan on high to circulate the heat really well. I guarantee it could heat up that space really fast. Mine draws 10 amps or so on the high...