Great, thanks. So sounds like I need something that can support at least 180kbus. The regulator I have says non adjustable in the description but I see an adjustable screw on the top? If I'm only 20kbus off is it worth messing with?
I won't normally have them all on and high no, but want the ability to if I need. Thanks for the advice, didnt know about the excess flow protecting in the tank.
So here is what I Have.
single tier HERMS with three banjo 14 burners with Low Pressure adjustable orfice, 3 Honeywell 8200 24v valvues. And my regulator is a MR Heater 2 stage LP regulator 1/2 PSI.
Testing out my three burners today and everytime I would ignite all three, the flame and...
I regrettably did not get any tickets either, although I already have two hotel rooms at the Hampton booked and paid for. I hear the night before is almost better than the event with all the beer trading going on. If any of you have an extra ticket or your plus one falls through Id love to pay...
So I racked two beers into my kegs before heading off to Europe for three weeks. I stupidly forgot to force carb before I left. When I got home I realized what I had done and opened the tops. This is what I found. What is it? Doesn't look like krousen to me, mold?
that is a good point and you are probably right. My thought is it would be less confusing to just flipping valves instead of disconnecting and reconnecting houses.
If going automated, These probably arent worth a **** for electic vavles right...
also going to add a QD fitting to line 2,6 to reconnect to the water line input on the HLT to recirculate the water through pump 1 while the mash is going through on pump 2.