Recent content by meznaric

I suppose that makes sense. Thanks.

I understand that I need some alcohol and I'm not hugely worried about it but I am trying to find the way that "real" extracts are made. I have read about tinctures but I could not find anything about the way the flavor reacts. Is it denatured or ruined in the boil down process?

When I look through recipes often times there will be a half a pound or so of crystal 25L and maybe another half pound of 40L. What is the real benefit here. Couldn't I just use more of one to achieve the same amount of unfermentable sugar and color or is there some other thinking behind this...

I'm more interested in the boiling off of the alcohol so that it is actually just the flavor extract. Is that how its done because there must be some alternate method for getting natural flavor extracts that don't include alcohol.

I tried to put hazelnuts in the boil for my porter and I'm getting none of that flavor. I want to try and make my own extract but I have a few questions I couldn't find answers to anywhere. I want to impart as little flavor as possible from the added liquor so I am thinking of using grain...

Beer Tools guessed that I would get 1.057 after this. I ended up with 1.036. This is no good. I had 15lb of grist, added 4.5 gallons at 168 to get to 145, then at the 30 minute mark I added 4 gallons at 180, to get to 160. Left it for another 30 minutes. I did not run off the first thing though...

So I calculated all of my strike temps for my various rests but I have read some different techniques on how to batch sparge. On byo.com I read that people like to take the first runnings then add the next amount of water, restir, and then drain it off. But John Palmer seems to think you should...

I'm going to make a pale ale and in the secondary for half will add different things. Original Gravity: 1.058 (1.045 - 1.060) Terminal Gravity: 1.014 (1.010 - 1.015) Color: 8.1 (5.0 - 14.0) Alcohol: 5.68% (4.5% - 6.0%) Bitterness: 44.1 (30.0 - 45.0) Ingredients: 9.0*lb (85.7%)...

I appreciate the responses. I have been letting some of the beer sit longer as you have suggested. I do have a store in PA that I go to where I have been building various 6 packs and that is helpful. I think that I am not a huge fan of most hoppy beers. Sierra Nevada was ok. Then again, I did...

So, I've come to a brewing dilemma. I made my first extract beer and I can't decide what I think of it. It may be ok, maybe a little bitter from the water I used, but it could also be infested with bacteria and clearly terrible. I feel like I have a very narrow pallet when it comes to truly...

Its only at 27SRM now, it doesn't seem dark enough for a stout

Another recipe I tried to assemble. Let me know what you guys think. Size: 5.04*gal Efficiency: 80.0% Attenuation: 75.0% Calories: 458.17*kcal per 16.0*fl oz Original Gravity: 1.102 (1.075 - 1.110) Terminal Gravity: 1.025 (1.010 - 1.024) Color: 12.05 (12.0 - 22.0) Alcohol: 10.18%...

Thanks for the input everyone. Why is it that I shouldn't use so much dark malt, it is a stout, darkness shouldn't matter. Is it just that using a lot of dark malt will tend to make it more bitter? Also, I realized that Stone makes a Vanilla Smoked Porter so I want to differentiate a little bit...

This is my first all grain recipe. What do you guys think? Size: 5.04*gal Efficiency: 80.0% Attenuation: 75.0% Calories: 239.67*kcal per 12.0*fl oz Original Gravity: 1.072 (1.026 - 1.120) Terminal Gravity: 1.018 (0.995 - 1.035) Color: 42.88 (1.0 - 50.0) Alcohol: 7.08% (2.5% - 14.5%)...

Does the IBU number account for the actual perceived bitterness based on how sweet or malty the grain is or does it just tell you the IBUs? Is there any way to gauge what the actual bitterness will end up being or do you just have to estimate. Also, how accurate would you say any of the programs...