Recent content by mattrennert

Walter- Just had a bit of boil over onto my March 809. Pump was dripping wort off it. I put a fan on it and cleaned up what I could. Pump seems to be running fine for now. Is there a way to take apart and clean it internally? Is the pump going to die on me early?

To be more clear... I'm wondering about viabilty of frozen yeast yeast slurry in a solution with 15% glycerine, stored in a non-frost free freezer.

Anyone have a rule of thumb for viability of frozen yeast? I have heard 5% drop per week for active yeast, I would imagine freezing slows the degradation.. Maybe 2% loss per week is reasonable?

When it comes to thawing yeast from a frozen bank, I'm seeing conflicting information... Some say thaw it fast in warm water and pitch into starter ASAP. And some say let it thaw in the fridge for a few days before pitching into a starter. Is one better than the other?

My usual primary length depends on the beer, but generally... under 1.050 - 10 days 1.050 - 1.065 - 15 days over 1.065 - 20 days Rack to Keg 30psi for 24-36 hours Set to serving pressure - 10psi Beer is slightly carbed and drinkable by day 5 Gets really good 15-20 days in keg Usually gone by...

I accidentally ordered the yellow Acid-Resistant Loc-Line instead of the blue and orange Standard hose for mash recirculation/sparging. Why the does the polyester max out at 150°, but has the same operating temp and a higher melting point than the standard? Is this polyester still ok to use for...

When I add coffee, I normally add 2 oz grounds at end of the boil, and 2 oz grounds in secondary. The flavor is a bit to strong early, but if used in a beer that will be around a while, it really mellows after a month in the keg.

Aren't there 53 twelve oz beers in a 5 gallon keg? Also, have you used 1/2" beverage line? I don't know of many people that do. If it works, what pressure are your kegs and line length? Nice project by the way!

Flatten the end a bit, then roll it up.

I just use the seal that came with the element on the outside and stainless locknut inside. I do check for leaks using my strike water before i start heating it. Only once in the last two years did it leak, then it was just a matter of tightening the nut. You dont want to fill the kettle up...

My elements are hard wired into my control panel, so when I occasionally need to tear down my rig to move it, i just remove the elements from the kettle and hlt. Have taken them in and out probably 30 times and have no leak issues or anything. Just remove to locknut on the inside, takes like 5...

I've been playing with splitting 10 gallon batches to make two different beers. But, just using different yeasts and dry hopping isn't giving me a ton of variety in the kegerator. I'm planning on brewing 10 gallons of all base malt (20# Maris otter) about 30ish IBU, and splitting it into two...

Here's my 'in a bucket' mill. How's the crush? Haven't brewed with it yet, so not sure on efficiency, or use lhbs mill?

You would get increased efficiency chilling, but i would assume your wort would be full of hop gunk, since most whirlpools produce a trub cone where your stir bar would be...

First, My city water in Madison supplies my house from two wells, problem is, I never know which one the water is coming from. Seems as the chloride and sulfate levels have the most difference between wells. Is there any treatment I could do that would cover both water profiles? Second...