Recent content by MarkInOhio

I believe that Kal at http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/ is thrilled with the performance of the HopStopper in his 20-gallon Blichmann electric boil kettle.

The idea of the fuse is not to save the lamps. The idea of the fuse is to prevent a fire from the wiring overheating if something goes terribly wrong WITH THE LAMP. Let's say the lamp shorts out and you have 14-gauge wire and the only circuit protection is a 30-amp breaker. That wire is going...

I have a Milwaukee Hackzall http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003PCINEK/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20, which I find to be an extremely handy tool. If you use the metal scroll blades http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001N0LYCE/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 they make for it, you can do a smooth, neat job quite...

FactoryMation - about $6 single pole, $12 double.

Mind sharing the ebay heatsink maker? Also, your user name looks familiar - are you a frequent contributor to the Ohio Game Fishing forum?

But which do you think is better - hole saw or punch?

Out of curiousity, do you think it's faster/easier/more accurate/cleaner to use the punch or a 7/8" hole saw? Am I correct in my assumption that either of these options is better than the step bit? I do have a nice drill press... Thanks!

Well, don't feel too badly. I bought some of those from the same place and couldn't figure it out either. I emailed for help and Tamas sent me his phone number to call. One minute on the phone and problem solved!

If you look at the switch toward the right side of the picture at that link, you see the little black ell-shaped tab sticking out? If you pull that straight outward (probably less than 1/4"), you will then be able to jiggle the top part off the switch.

Did you ever get the switch figured out?

Double-pole/Double-throw/Center-off. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062537

I posted the link to the 2-pole breaker because it was the equivalent (but less-expensive) product to the one you had listed. You really only need a single pole breaker for the 120v line. Aside from that, it looks pretty good to me.

In my experience, each and every one of the very few things I've purchased from Harbor Freight has been C-R-A-P CRAP! Reading the customer reviews, this item seems to be no exception. You can buy the real Greenlee product on Amazon for about $65, or often a bit less on ebay.

I don't think you'd want it to handle 120v! In the simplest form, you'd put it inline in the SSR control wire from the PID. Alternatively, it could drive the coil on a relay to allow alarms, etc.

Interesting timing on this post - I just came to that exact realization no more than 5 minutes ago. :) Does anyone have a feel for the best method to cut all those 22mm switch and pilot light holes? Punch, hole saw, or step-bit?