Recent content by magno

Short answer... yes, you should. I can't speak first hand to shipping cost, but I'd bet that you can brew a decent batch of IPA for $50 or less. Since you have your old equipment, and you feel the itch, I'd say brew a batch and let the bug take you. There may be some wisdom in wading in with an...

I'm beyond disgruntled about AHS closing down, and the way they did it, without much forewarning or any publication is a real PITA for locals on the north side of town (like me) who could just drop in on a whim. I will not be buying anything from the mail-order outfit. As ElTacoLoco mentioned -...

I don't have one of these, but they seem pretty slick... I usually just pour beers until I'm suprised by the keg blowing. https://ballandkeg.com/

www.hopsdirect.com These guys are great for rhizomes and bulk hops orders.

Call me a fogey or a debbie downer, but whats the point?

Myself... I'd use a low-to-moderate attenuating yeast, like Windsor, mash on the high side, and get as close to 1.030 as I could without fretting too much. Where did you find this recipe? What is the style you are cloning?

Super blast from the past! Looks like I used to cover with aluminum foil... I also recall using the lid to cover as much of the top as it could without a notch cut out... but I've been using a plate chiller for several years now (with the lid on).

Like many others have said... just use two packs. I've often used two packs of dry yeast on a high gravity beer, never used three, never had an issue.

1. In the past, I've soaked the chips or spirals in bourbon for a week or so, while the fermentation was winding down, and adding the wood (with the bourbon mostly drained out) to secondary or in the keg for several weeks. 2. Soaking the wood in the bourbon will impart the bourbon flavor -...

Seems on the right track to me too... I haven't used Chinook and Simcoe together before. Nottingham is a reasonable choice... it finishes pretty dry in my experience, and is pretty neutral. It should complement the rye.

You have the makings there for a tasty, malty beer... Off the top of my head, I'd look at around: 60% 2-Row 20% Munich 15% C-60 5% Chocolate For hops, I'd go with Willamette... BU:GU around 0.65 to 0.75, with the last hops addition at 10 min

Probably not a big difference other than color... they should both have similar extract potential.

I've tried multiple methods of getting cherry flavor into beer... mostly stouts. The best method, by far, that I have found is using RW Knudeson black cherry juice concentrate. I've got a chocolate cherry stout recipe on the forum that uses this stuff. I've been a huge evangelist for these...

I'm sure there is a more exact way to do it, but I wouldn't keep it at 30psi very long - 12 hrs max... I'd prob just keep it at 13psi. There is no real chance of any ill effect on the beer though.

Nice writeup chalkyt! It's comforting to see that we got to similar results using different methods.