Recent content by jmer1234

No, it's a valve. Typically, you only need to prime them once. I stick a short hose on the outlet, catch the wort or water in a small bucket, depending on the side, and put it back in the system.

One thing I have done is add priming valves to my outlets. This has greatly simplified the effort to get things moving. When you are ready to start the pump, open the priming valve to bleed any air out of the pump, then once you have good flow, close the priming valve and everything should start...

If they are the Chinese wok burner style, they are definitely low pressure. You will need a .5 psi regulator. The trick is to make sure every element from the tank to the burner is rated to supply the total amount of btus that the burners will consume. These are probably in the neighborhood of...

No, I am the programmer in the family. I am obliquely associated with the SCADA projects at my company, and provide some of the support, so I am familiar with the programming theory. I may get with my brother about ebaying the unit, but I want to give him first dibs, since certain people on his...

Yep, that is kind of what I am beginning to figure out. The controller does have a cat-5 interface built into the chassis, so I am pretty sure I can interface with the controller, but I am not finding a lot of resources other than the proprietary options.

No, you should be able to run a single PID. But I was just doing the math. If you are runining 110 Volt, you can get away with a single 40 amp SSR, but if you are running 220 Volt, you will be pushing 50 amps with 2 heater elements, and will need 2 40 amp SSRs or an appropriately sized single...

That is what I would do. Or use a higher amperage SSR. Typically, I am using a 25 amp ssr to control 1 element. But a 40 amp ssr should be able to handle 2, just do the math based on your voltage/heater element max watts to make sure.

As I am looking at the 500 series documentation, it looks like I will need a separate module to use my current RTD sensors.

Thanks. You already have me half way down the rabbit hole. I have now realized that first, I need to be able to turn the thing on. Apparently the AB equipment is extremely modularized, but I believe the chassis I have has the power supply integrated. Next, I need to figure out exactly which...

Yes, I tried the Goolge search, and realized AB has proprietary software for sale.

No, you will need a separate controller for each element. Edit: The question is, though, why do you want to have independently controlled elements? Edit, Edit: Unless you are not trying to independently control the 2 elements. In which case yes. You will need to make sure your circuit/ssr can...

So, I have just come into possession of an Allen Bradley SLC 500 Process Logic Controller (PLC). I have been working on my Brutus/electric hybrid system, and was about half way through building the control panel when my brother casually commented, "You know what you need is a pee-elle-cee." (His...

Something like this that will get used a bit, would do well with a completely different under color. As the edges and sides start getting worn, the under color will start to show through, giving some interesting effects. Think of antique items like step stools that were used a lot, and repainted...

Personally I think this this price is laughable. I would never spend that amount for any alcoholic beverage. I have had Louis 14th cognac at ~$300 a snifter (given to me), and thought, "Yep, that tastes like brandy." Sometimes, people have to point and declare "The Emperor is wearing no clothes!"

A fool and his money are soon parted. Everyone is free to set a price, and everyone is free to negotiate that price or walk away. That is what a free market is. I know many who think I am a little off for the amounts I spend on bicycles and brewing equipment.