#1 - You can use whichever plugs you have. The cords on the pumps weren't long enough for me, so I was going to splice them anyway.
#2 - If you can find 1/2" NPT RTD's go with that. I had 1/4's so I had to reduce.
Cheers,
--
Josh
Just a reminder^^^ :-)
Also many people ask, if I had the build to do over again would I do anything differently. After brewing over 500 gallons on this system, the answer without a doubt is no. This is the finest beer making machine I could have ever expected.
To all of the people...
You'll have to use your multimeter to test the circuit at each point. Test the voltage at the 24V output (pre-switch), post-switch into PID, PID output (directly), and the coaxial output connector. Also check the voltages when you have your switch in "Manual/On" mode.
Are you running the 24V source through the PID? If you have the SYL2362 PID, check the manual (here) section 10.3 and make sure your wiring is correct.
The panel doesn't generate any noticeable heat. The 24V wire was probably 10guage or so. I bought a roll and used what was needed (not sure how many feet). Just measure your distance and go buy some wire. Not rocket science. ;-) You'd have to consult with someone else to wire the DPDT, I can't...
Thanks James. You can get the switches at Radioshack or any other electronics store. They are "Single Pole Double Throw" (SPDT) switches. It just means that there is a single voltage source coming IN, and two possible voltage sources going OUT. Just make sure that the switch you pick is rated...
I would put in manual electric spark ignitors, like you have on a grill. I still plan to do that.
I lock the castors on brew day (they are double locking, meaning they lock the wheel and the swivel) and don't move it at all. "Folding" castors seems impractical just to gain 4 inches. You're...