Recent content by DaveC73

From the DV10 technical sheet: "This yeast is neutral, robust and reliable. It is considered a clean fermenter that respects varietal characters and avoids the bitter contribution of other workhorse yeasts" Confirm the above is true. And no bitter aftertaste like EC-1118 can leave behind. It...

About 8 months ago I started using DV10 out of curiosity because it's supposed to allow fruit characteristics (from your apples used or co-fermented fruits) to make it through fermentation. The cider batches I started last year have been coming "on stream" and I've been slowly going through...

Started 3 gallons of cherry cider and 4 gallons of ginger cider today. 4 + 7 = 11

Never feel dumb about this stuff, we all do silly stuff from time to time. One of the last brews I was going to bottle never made it into bottles. I left the spigot open on the bottling bucket while i was syphoning into it. At least it was in the sink...

Depending on how gently you added the cider to the keg, it's possible you've got a layer of concentrate at the bottom of the keg. Since that's where your dip-tube takes from, try gently mixing the keg and see if this helps, keeping in mind that some sweet cider may still be in the dip-tube. So...

I typically bulk age my ciders for at least 4 to 6 months before bottling. My current problem is I've run out of space for more carboys but want to keep starting new batches. The only solution I've been able to think of is to bottle some of those bulk aging ciders and bottle age them instead. I...

2 gal perry 1 gal golden russet cider 2 gal winesap cider 3 gal mulberry cider 3 gal mustang grape cider 3 gal arkansas black cider So 14 more gallons! 304.75 + 14 = 318.75 gal

Going to assume you mean M02, not MOP. M02 is Mangrove Jack's cider yeast. I've made both my best and worst ciders with it. So it's good, but finnicky.

I agree with CKuhns, ageing can make a big difference in the final cider, including taking the tart/acid edge away. If you don't want to wait, the best non-fermentable sweetener I have found is BochaSweet. Its xylose (not xylitol) extracted from kabocha squash. To me it is indistinguishable...

Apparently I have more cents... 5) If you're not going to do a wild ferment but are going to add a cultured yeast strain, then sulfite your juice after pressing. One campden tablet per gallon of juice should do the trick. Campden tablets kill bacteria and suppress wild yeast. 6) For campden...

I've only pressed apples a couple of times, but here's my 2 cents: 1) the apples don't need to be sanitized but giving them a wash (just a good rinse with water) is recommended, especially since you have some windfalls. 2) A little bruising never hurt my cider, but definitely cut out and throw...

4 gallons apple cider 1 gal pineapple jalapeno cider 1 gal mustang grape cider 1 gal ginger cider 1 gal cranberry thyme cider 1 gal peach basil cider 1 gal watermelon mint cider 10 gallons total! 163.25 + 10 = 173.25

Hi guys. To clarify (pun intended!), the photo of the juice is prior to fermentation. Yeast hasn't been pitched yet. The sediment is what dropped out of the juice after I added pectinase.

My typical cider routine is to transfer my juice to the primary fermenter, add sulfite, wait 12-24 hours, add pectinase, wait another 12 hours, add yeast nutrient, pitch yeast. Lately, the juice I've been using (Louisburg Original) has been throwing a LOT of sediment after the pectinase...

What Doug said. Were they crown caps or flip top bottles? If the pressure gets high enough, flip tops are said to leak a bit, but things shouldn't go all the way flat.