Recent content by DaDzBrewery

I say throw about a 1/2 cup of brown sugar (per 5 gallons) in as a primer, after boiling the water and then dissolving it ofcourse.. that will not carb up the stout all the way, but will start the aging process ( which is good for stouts ) then when you have the room to hook up to nitro, then...

Sometimes by racking, you introduce oxygen into your beer, which will fuel the yeast to eat any fermentables left behind, not a bad thing.. Notty yeast is a beast,lol, just doing it's job, may be a couple points lower in gravity than intended, but in the range of 1.010 you're not going to tell...

You just have to remember that the colder the fermentation the more co2 is already in the beer.. http://hbd.org/brewery/library/YPrimerMH.html ... then here is a claculator.. to help.. http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html

I was just throwing the cold crash in there ( for other beers ) I had already answered the question, I don't see why you are suggesting the use of more yeast, Lager yeast are cultured to lager temps.. the only way possible I would even think about putting more yeast in, is if I lager a beer for...

This is a practice that I've never used.. There are plenty of yeast in suspension to bottle and get proper carbonation.. even if you cold crash before bottling.. So I wouldn't worry about it.. Just my opinion

Is there anyway you can bottle it ? but to answer your question.. IMO.. You will def. lose some carbonation, due to the temperature rising.. beer accepts more co2 at lower temps and releases it at higher temps.. can you re-carb ? sure.. will the beer be exactly the same? no, but it won't be...

Just a question.. I have these laying around form my conversions... been thinking what I can use them for.. What are people wanting these for? Just staring at them and All I can think to do with mine is make up some SS washers with a hole saw, out of the cut tops for future repairs to the mash...

Or this one, if you need boiling pot and all.. http://morebeer.com/view_product/15911/102142/Personal_Home_Brewery_%233_-_Bottling_Deluxe

This is a pretty good kit.. even comes with an ingredient kit of your choice.. http://www.homebrewers.com/product/1000/5-Gallon-Beer-Making-Starter-Kit-with-Ingredients.html

Being that you used gellatin, it might take a little longer to carb correctly.. but eventually it will.. by using gellatin, you are dropping most of everything out of suspension... Rule of thumb.. a cloudy, proper carbed beer, is better than a clear low carbed beer, but give it some time.. I...

If you have time, it wouldn't hurt to combine the two, and boil for about 15 minutes to sterilize again.. then chill.. def, not a practice that I would make a habit, nor will it be as good as you would have made, but it'll be beer... A little advice.. drink during boil, that way by time your...

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I look at it as expendable beer, there for the tasting.. ;0)

You can test directly from the carboy after sanitising your hydro.. but are you going to be able to get it out ? you don't really need a test jar.. You can use the tube from your hydrometer.. If you pull from the carboy with a baster.. Sanitize the baster, and don't worry about sanitising the...

It wouldn't hurt either, to put a heat shield, peice of aluminum ( or steel would be better ) kinda thin, in between your flame and pot, if you can do it somehow that there is a little bit of space in between each, and you could leave your propane on low and hold temp... With it being indirect...