Recent content by Cynic

Well thanks a lot for the help everyone!

Thanks I am still very new to this. I didn't use any program or do any calculations. I just poached that recipe sheet from a local homebrewing Facebook group. However if I didn't lose all that liquid I am afraid that my OG would have been considerably lower than the recipe predicts. Any useful...

Problem is I am using a pot with a heating element that is just directly plugged into the Inkbird temperature controller. I have no way of controlling the intensity of the element other than setting a temp in the Inkbird that switches it on/off based on the temperature input from the probe.

Yeah I had a pretty hard boil going on the entire time. I set my Inkbird to 101 degrees but maybe it would be better to lower it to like 98-99 degrees to get more of a simmer, since the probe will have delayed input to the heat controller.

So I am brewing my first all grain beer. I used a one pot setup with a fine mesh mash strainer and have a pump for recirculating and cooling via plate chiller. The recipe says I should have gotten a volume of about 21 litres but I ended up with about 18 litres at a gravity of 1.060. I understand...

Well I did a hop stand and I am going to dry hop as well. I just want to figure out the best way to prevent bottle bombs which I guess is just to monitor it closely and drink one every few days to make sure that they aren't over carbonating. Not that frequency of drinking is going to be a big...

Ok thank you.

Hello guys, so I just started brewing my first all grain batch and I am brewing a Zombie Dust clone. I intend to bottle into 0.33cl bottles and I use priming sugar for carbonation. I have no way of controlling the temperature of the brew so it will be fermenting in 18-20 °C. The recipe calls for...

Thanks a lot for your help! Wish me luck...

Thanks, hopefully I'll get through this in one piece!

Is there any downside to just pouring it from the tubes back into the pot?

Thanks this seems like a pretty good option. After all I was just trying to be lazy and not have to unplug the damn thing every time my absent minded self realizes I forgot something.

Well the valve is connected directly to the output of the pump. Maybe I should just err on the side of caution here..

Well I will be chilling the wort with a plate chiller so the pump seems ideal for that as well. I was thinking maybe closing the valve after circulating/mashout and then sparging the grain and then turning the pump back on to get everything nice and uniform or is that maybe unnecessary? What...

I guess it wouldn't be for too long at a time. But let's say I am recirculating the mash. I don't have anything fancy so I would probably be doing that by hand and If I need to stop for a few seconds if the pump is going to get ruined or something is going to go boom. This is going to be my...