Recent content by Bobby_M

I went to Pittsburg 2022 but couldn't make it last year due to family obligations. By my previous experience at 10 homebrewcons, the flop was already here. I'm guessing they lost money and it only got worse in San Diego. They need to pivot to smaller venues again quickly but event planning does...

Out of sorrow and desperation, I tried to fill the homebrewcon sized hole in my soul by attending the CBC. In fact, I'm sitting the Las Vegas airport waiting for my redeye flight back home right now. The CBC was weird because I'm not a pro brewer and I went by myself. It had its positive vibes...

If you don't brew that much, I'd recommend selling all your current gear and just buy an Anvil Foundry and plug it in to 240v. It will be a joy to run occasionally. My guess is that you'll end up netting a profit in the exchange and you don't even need to build anything

Yeah, I did say that I haven't brewed on it. I don't like smearing manufacturers and that thing might be fabulous but I've had enough experience with the company that it's not happening again.

No real need as the DSPR series has a built in buzzer. If you want something louder, it gets switched via the alarm relay contacts.

There's a lot to unpack, but not without some more discussion on what you're hoping to get out of the system. Chiller choice, I believe is influenced by fermenter choice. Chilling in a CFC direct to the fermenter, puts all the cold break into the fermenter. If you're not using a conical, that...

Yeah, the coil wouldn't trip the 240 breaker. I'm throwing stuff at the wall here. I have had breakers tripping on more than one unit due to very dirty copper pads on the contactors. When that was happening, I had every intension to replace the $20 part, but an emery board polishing kept the...

No, don't pull the contactor out. Just manually actuate it in the same fashion the coil would when the thermostat calls for cooling. Most of them can be pushed into to the closed position.

The EVA tubing already is quick disconnecting via the duotight fittings. Don't make it more complicated.

Possibly indicative of a siphon equipped tank sending liquid CO2 through the regulator.

Reset the breaker with the thermostat off, then (carefully) manually press in the contactor on the evap unit. That would eliminate a coil short. If the unit starts up, it's the contactor coil. Also disconnect the fan and try to run it. That will eliminate the fan motor circuit.

It's possible to raise the false bottom up high enough to install an element underneath. There are a few ways to get it done. I just modified a customer's 50G blichmann setup to do the same by welding a bunch of M8 nuts to the underside to use bolts to lift it upwards. I understand not really...

I have a 4 channel temp logger with very inexpensive K thermocouples that I just shove or clip where I want them. I know it's a drag to potentially make another hole in your kettle, but that's probably the cheaper, more accurate way to go.

A 1V recirculated eBIAB would be the easiest to run with the least amount of plumbing and babysitting. I think making a system more complicated is fine, as long as it's driven by some rationale or some issue that you're trying to fix.

Insulating the keg would help with condensation, which may not be a problem now but may worsen in the middle of summer. The other thing it would do is give you a lower minimum temperature. If you were to try cold crashing, it might bottom out at 45 without insulation and get to 40 with...