Recent content by AN_TKE

Another idea I have is to run a 5500w element and switch it to 120v once I get a boil going. I tried this with the 4500w element and couldn't get the boil back. Changing from 240 to 120 is reducing the wattage to 25%, so 1,125w did not do it with 7.5 gal wort and a bit of insulation around the...

I have a 240v feed to a receptacle, cord to a heat stick with the element at the end. Turn on the breaker with the stick in the wort and there you have it. Pre boil vol is 7-8 gallons for 6 gallon batch size. Boil kettle is an old sanke. The keg sits on the concrete floor and the boil is...

Nope - standard ingredients. I also vorloff or whatever it's called to keep sediment out of boil kettle. Pretty clean wort boiling. Note, only 1 of 2 batches burned each time. Maybe I should take a voltage reading to see if one might be getting more voltage.

Yes, I have the ULWD element, which I believe Camco calls "premium" and is rated at 50w/in^2. This is the boil kettle application, bringing 160 or so degree wort after sparging to boil. I don't think this is a result of sediment settling on element before boil turbulence would prevent that -...

The element is a Camco 4500w, ultra low density from Home Depot. Burned flavor is like smoke, very bad, not caramel. Had to dump the IPA :(.

Anyone having trouble with heat stick burning wort? My 1st run at it (2 batches, 2 boils at same time ) resulted in one being burned. I replaced both elements and made a few other adjustments. Then today one of the two smelled like it was burning so I switched to gas. Any help? Thanks.

Thanks for the feedback. How do you guys oxygenate? I'm puzzled about the refractometer issue too. Can anyone elaborate?

Forgive me if this thread is a bit redundant, but I can't seem to find the answers to my questions in many of the other similar threads on this subject. I have brewed a few high OGs lately and I'm not able to get down to the target 1.0teens I'm looking for or indicated by the recipe. I'm...

I got my tubing today. Should be in business by the time I am ready to carbonate the batch fermenting now. I've got to make a manefold from copper or SCH 80 PVC, shouldn't be too much trouble. I have the double regulator setup already and my local welding supply has tanks without a wait, so...

thanks fellas.

I have two places in my house that I want to have CO2 - in my basement for carbonating and in the fridge and in my kitchen at the kegerator. The two obvious alternatives are to have two CO2 tanks, or to have one tank in the basement with a line running up to the kegerator in the kitchen. I am...

I brewed this two weeks ago and had it wrapped in a space blanket during fermentation. The temp got 80+ and then naturally cooled as fermentation petered out. I tested SG today and got 1.042. I plan to put it next to the baseboard with the space blanket over the heater and the fermenter to...

Since I haven't had consistent problems with contamination - one beer will be fine and then i had this batch, and the next seems to be fine - i wonder if it was a combination of things. I guess I'm doing a pretty good job with the b-brite though, after a few years and only one or two...

I haven't used Brett before, but I suppose that doesn't rule out that it was present in some other yeast package, right? I use a white bucket for primary fermentation, so perhaps something was stuck in there? I have been wondering a bit about that. I'll have to get some sanatizer i...

Thanks for all the feedback. I'll have to read more on this. Funny - I have a lambic going that i started after this brew...was hoping to encounter brett later than sooner. I wonder if the temp cooled, became stunted, and then brett was able to take over? Thanks again.