Recent content by adhomebrew10

Are you wanting to use it for a mash run or a hlt/kettle? If a mash tun the infusion mash tun is the way to go. 0 dead space and you can hook it up to a rims for recirc and sparge. I have 2 bme kettles the infusion. I am about to do a pilot batch but my first tests doing boils with water...

I did a cip on the unitank tonight and doing a pilot batch tomorrow to figure out all of my volumes. The fun of new setups is dialing in everything, especially with 5g setup. Brewing something along the lines of a blonde ale with what I have on hand.

Not familiar with that setup. I assume you were sparging and had this issue? Can you help me understand more details? You might be able to adjust your mash thickness ratio to compensate. Would love to help if I can.

If you have a blow off hooked up that should vent the yeast if fermentation is still that active. Beer is resilient. During active fermentation so much co2 is bubbling up it is blowing things up and away. Let it ride, wait it out and see what happens. It will be beer for sure.

I think you are ok. Getting rogue water into 190 degrees likely didn’t contaminate your beer. Hard to say but could be that Krausen blocked the prv and you now have offgassing from the beer building up slight pressure. Will likely be fine.

Your post made me laugh. It isn’t funny when it happens but it is later. I once had a black IPA that was to be about 13% for a beer festival that took off super quick and blew the airlock out. I came home to black sticky all over the walls and ceiling and a half gallon of yeast pouring into...

I would recommend you add any clarity agents to the fermenter instead of the keg, otherwise you will end up with a lot of gunk at the bottom of your keg. If you are worried about introducing oxygen at this point, you still have positive pressure on the fermenter and can be added safely, then...

For your budget with 5-10 gallon batches, the spike or SSBrewtech systems are fantastic. The higher end of both come with all sanitary welded fittings with triclamp connections and are totally worth it. I don't personally have experience with the electric systems, choosing direct fire for my...

I am guessing your FG was fairly low with that original yeast giving you an initial ABV of about 8%? Losing 5 gallons for sure pushed that higher. Aging in a sherry barrel for a year gave you a lot of wood contact and with that sour mix strain could be creating that nose you are picking up...

Hello Homebrewtalk! I was very active on the forum long ago. I got my homebrew start back in 2010 with a lot of research and advice from this very forum. I have still been active brewing, but lost touch with the community during covid. Since starting homebrewing I have become a national...

I can't imagine that after 48 hours the yeast were done and had totally settled out. Did you lose some yeast? Probably. But if all of your yeast already dropped out fermentation was slowing down anyway. You said Milk Chocolate stout. Did you use lactose? Mash temp? With that yeast...

More details... What was mash temp and duration? I haven't plugged that grain bill into anything, but by the poundage I would expect an OG close to your prediction for 10 or so gallons. If your efficiency was that low it has to be something with the mash, or your reading was not accurate. I...

There are a lot of variables without knowing about the twang taste. A green beer will sometimes taste a bit like green apples, perhaps be a bit thin and cidery, etc. Twang could also be a result of some type of infection, but with only one bottle to compare against it is hard to know for sure...

For anyone who is curious, I called Summit and anywherw on the top is ok. I drilled last weekend no issues.

It depends. I mash from 1.25 to 1.75 quarts. I batch sparge and try to calculate to collect exactly the boil volume I need where I collect close to the same amount from the mash and sparge. Normally I get higher efficiency with the thinner mash as well. It also has to do with how big your...