I found that my stir motor (like Pols) could not keep up with my 5500W element in my HLT. So I just recirculate my march pump and it does the job nicely.
When you say it couldn't keep up, do you mean it didn't move water away from the element fast enough? Were you getting some flash boiling?
I'm about to start on my HLT. Like the OP, I'm going to use a 10 gallon cooler from THD.
Mine will be a little different. I am making a lid out of 2" foam, with a thin plywood top. Through the lid will be 2 1.5" elbow plumbing fixtures, with 2000 watt water heater elements installed in the bottom, elbow part.
This will give me 4000 watts to heat my strike and sparge water with.
I had to give up on my dual heatstick, I could not find the right parts to make it, so this is my replacement.
I still need some way to mix the water. Thanks for the aquarium pump idea, I had not thought of that one.
What about just using two smaller elements? I mean that's what electric water heaters do... one at the bottom, one closer to the top, through the sides. You'd be adding the cost and complexity of two elements, but you wouldn't need any kind of stirring system either.
There must be something I don't understand about heating water in the HLT. I don't get why bother to build a stir motor when a timer can do the trick. You're going to drain it into the MT anyway, and that will mix it up, right?
There must be something I don't understand about heating water in the HLT. I don't get why bother to build a stir motor when a timer can do the trick. You're going to drain it into the MT anyway, and that will mix it up, right?
I think the problem is accurately knowing the temperature of the water as a whole. If it's a lot cooler in some spots than others, where do you measure the temperature?
I think the problem is accurately knowing the temperature of the water as a whole. If it's a lot cooler in some spots than others, where do you measure the temperature?
Ok, I'll buy that. But still, say you use a timer to get to your target, then spend 5-10 seconds stirring with a spoon before you measure the temp. Is that enough convection or is it the automation you're trying to support?
Basically if you are using a temp. controller, which most people are, there has to be turbulence so that your controller can accurately read the temp. for ON/OFF.
The problem I see with a timer is this. Yes, you can break down heating time mathematicaly, but you have a lot of variables. Temp of the HLT, temp. of the water, % of heat lost to ambient. Also, unless you plan to use the HLT water as soon as the time expires, there is the issue of turning on and off the element to maintain the temp. that you desire.
If you plan to use the HLT as a HERMS HEX, then obviously you need turbulence. Outside of that you CAN do without it, but your temps. wont be as precise and unless you are there to turn it on and off to maintain the temp. after it is heated, it will cool off without your intervention.
I mean, really the nice thing about electric is that it is UBER easy to automate with a simple on/off controller, as long as you can keep a homogenous temp. The timer thing will work, except like I said, once you turn it off... the water starts to cool, so you become the temp. controller, Id rather spend $80.
From points illustrated throughout this post, I basically 'need' to put together some sort of stirring element for there to be any point in the temp probe. I am thinking of building this first with the heating element and just plugging it into the wall, then adding in the temp sensor later in a few weeks. Alot of this will be constructed over Turkey break, I just wanted to sort of get a guideline for what needed to be done.
1. Cooler conversion to ball valve.
2. Add in heating element.
2.5 http://www.brewersfriend.com/2009/04/26/adding-sight-gauges-on-a-budget/
and
2.75 http://www.brewersfriend.com/2009/02/15/add-thermometer-probe-to-hlt-mlt-cooler/
3. Insulate lid.
4. Develop stirring device.(So far methinks a crappy hobby supply motor and a big stick. Anyone have an idea of needed RPM if I am only using a 1500-2000W element?)
5. Learn all about temp sensors and how to hook one of those badboys up.
Sorry about the 2.5 and 2.75, I didnt want to renumber the whole thing and forgot about those fun little additions.
__________________ Primary:
Cold Hearted Ale Secondary:(dryhop)
Guy Fawkes Pale Ale Bottled:
Gunslinger Pale
Elephantine Pale Ale On Tap
60 Minute IPA
From points illustrated throughout this post, I basically 'need' to put together some sort of stirring element for there to be any point in the temp probe. I am thinking of building this first with the heating element and just plugging it into the wall, then adding in the temp sensor later in a few weeks. Alot of this will be constructed over Turkey break, I just wanted to sort of get a guideline for what needed to be done.
1. Cooler conversion to ball valve.
2. Add in heating element. 2.5 http://www.brewersfriend.com/2009/04/26/adding-sight-gauges-on-a-budget/
and
2.75 http://www.brewersfriend.com/2009/02/15/add-thermometer-probe-to-hlt-mlt-cooler/
3. Insulate lid. 4. Develop stirring device.(So far methinks a crappy hobby supply motor and a big stick. Anyone have an idea of needed RPM if I am only using a 1500-2000W element?) 5. Learn all about temp sensors and how to hook one of those badboys up.
Sorry about the 2.5 and 2.75, I didnt want to renumber the whole thing and forgot about those fun little additions.
That Brewers Friend website has some cool stuff on it eh?
You will need a MIN of 100RPM, Id suggest 200RPM
If you use a 1500W element you can get by with a simple Johnson A419, $80 and it is easy for you to set up, plug and play.
Anything pulling more than 16A you will need an SSR probably and then a PID to control that.
A buddy of mine took the rotissere (sp) motor of his barbeque grill. A very little simple motor and rigged a big spoon looking thing onto that to stir his electric HLT.
Linear Mode
