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Old 03-08-2012, 02:22 PM   #11
clearwaterbrewer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpalarchio View Post
I think the thermowells have a large enough ID to hold the probes or a probe from something like a Johnson controller.

The probe ends are large enough for individual sensors like a one-wire sensor or anything else in that package size.

Darrin's stuff is pretty well made. I've given up trying to make anything he sells already as I know mine wouldn't be as good.

Not sure how you're using these but check out how he does the compression fittings by drilling through them and them using o-rings as a seal. Works out real well when in a mash tun so you can easily back them out of the way while stirring in your grains.
I buy the 10-packs of 2P237 fittings from grainger and drill them for 1/4" in the lathe to get a straight hole:


then I use a 1/8" long piece of 1/4"ID plastic tubing as the ferrule, but my next order, getting some 2CGH8 PTFE(teflon) ferrules :


I use these EPCOS B57500M0103A005 thermistors for my BCS.. both Newark and Digikey have them for <$3.00



and a few of these GE Sensing MA100 thermistors that are about $5 from Newark, but only 2mm in diameter, that fit in meat probes for use in my smoker, as I like to see the brisket temp vs smoker temp graph from the internet ;-)


so without tubes, I am at $40 for 10 sensors... if I get the tubes at $4, I am at $8 per sensor, and I know exactly the parameters of the thermistor and can use the same parameter thermistor in several ways, not being tied to what the person who made the sensor used...

here is tubing enough to make 10 probes, average length 7.2" total would be only ~$5/probe :-)
Tubing, Welded, 1/4 In, 6 ft, 304 SS
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Old 03-08-2012, 02:26 PM   #12
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when I feel rich, I will go to stainless fittings...

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Old 03-08-2012, 02:33 PM   #13
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You can use a ball or knob turner on your lathe to get the end perfectly round. They aren't that hard to build.

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Old 03-08-2012, 02:45 PM   #14
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those are for cutting, right? (that is all that I see) here is what I am talking about... just on a larger scale.. all I need is the skill, and the hat... that is one bad hat!

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Old 03-08-2012, 02:46 PM   #15
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LOL... this thread is now the 4th hit for Google search of: spin tube shut in a lathe

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Old 03-08-2012, 04:02 PM   #16
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I used a piece of soft copper and plugged the end with a short piece of 00 ground wire. Ground it smooth and haven't had any problems sense.

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Old 03-08-2012, 04:37 PM   #17
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Just now, I tried turning the end shut with a cheapie Harbor Freight bit and running the lathe backwards:


It chipped the bit, but not really where it is important, and it did make the diameter larger and will have to turn that down.

It seems that motion of the tool across the surface with some pressure works better than a lot of pressure...
I believe a multi-angle approach is needed.. and that is how I got the last little bit... running it in more than across.. I think a small bearing mounted on a tool may do the trick...

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