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Old 07-21-2010, 03:07 PM   #11
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Old 07-21-2010, 03:11 PM   #12
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The temperature thing is interesting. Why do you have to bring it up to 338, when to get the "bugs" out of fruit, honey, and other additives in the secondary you use pasturization (sp) temps of only 150-170? Seems to me that the lowest heat to solve the problem would be the best option.

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Old 07-21-2010, 03:17 PM   #13
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I always used to use heat for my bottling.

However, there is no need to sterilize. 170 for 45 minutes will do just fine. Get the bottles really clean, foil the tops, stack them in the oven, 170 for 45 minutes, leave them in there until you are ready to bottle.

IME, the best way to do it, is to pop them in the oven at night, turn off the oven after the 45 minutes, then bottle in the morning. It is a great way to do it with less labor and very consistent results.

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Old 07-21-2010, 04:32 PM   #14
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Why heat them? Star-san is quick and easy and no rinse required. And you are not wasting all that energy of running your oven for an hour.

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Old 07-21-2010, 04:38 PM   #15
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People always think it is tough... I just don't see why.

This is BY FAR the easiest and least labor intensive way I have ever used to sanitize bottles. If I am bottling just a couple, then I mix up some star san and do the dunk.

But for a whole batch, the oven is way less work. I literally just load it up, turn it on, then take them out when bottling then next day.

It isn't for everyone, but it is a legit technique that is super easy.

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Old 07-21-2010, 04:39 PM   #16
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I have done that. Put the foil on first, and bake at 350 for an hour and a half, and then when your done, leave them in the oven overnight and dont open the door till morning, that lets the temprature ramp down. ive done hundreds of bottles this way and I like it. The only problem is I usually am not organized enough to do it ahead of time...

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Old 07-21-2010, 05:02 PM   #17
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I've also used the oven before, and actually prefer it but for concerns that it might weaken the glass over time. It also requires more set up time to heat and cool (and you should heat them gradually). Palmer gives times in How to Brew, which vary by the amount of heat.

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Old 07-21-2010, 05:19 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boerderij_Kabouter View Post
This is BY FAR the easiest and least labor intensive way I have ever used to sanitize bottles. If I am bottling just a couple, then I mix up some star san and do the dunk.
Ah, if you are dunking your bottles in sanitizing solution no wonder you find it hard....get a vinator:

http://www.eckraus.com/WINEMAKING/Wi...e_1/BW215.html

1 or 2 pumps per bottle with starsan, done. My wife pumps it for me.
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Old 07-21-2010, 05:27 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boerderij_Kabouter View Post
People always think it is tough... I just don't see why.

This is BY FAR the easiest and least labor intensive way I have ever used to sanitize bottles. If I am bottling just a couple, then I mix up some star san and do the dunk.

But for a whole batch, the oven is way less work. I literally just load it up, turn it on, then take them out when bottling then next day.

It isn't for everyone, but it is a legit technique that is super easy.
I guess for you guys up north it's viable. But in the south when you have the AC running full bore to keep up with nearly 100 deg outside temp, the last thing you want to do is run your oven for an hour and a half.

I don't bottle much anymore. but when I do I can sanitize 2 cases of bottles in 10-15 minutes with star-san. Dunk two at a time, fill partially, hold thumb over top and shake vigorously, dump, on the bottle rack and repeat.
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Old 07-21-2010, 05:40 PM   #20
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I've done that a few times with no problems. Put the foil on the bottles, put them in the oven, bake at 350*F for three hours, then turn off and let cool overnight. I think the structural problems, if any, may come from the bottles heating too rapidly and unevenly (direct radiation from the heating coil on one side of the bottle), so I would stand in front of the oven and manually cycle the oven - on for 30 seconds, off for 30 seconds, for the 25 minutes it took to come up to temperature in order to avoid letting the heating coil get bright orange hot. Somewhat of a pain to do that, but the good side is you can do it a day or two before bottling and have one less thing to worry about on bottling day. Probably easier just to use StarSan.
I'm all for experimenting and trying new methods out, but I have to agree with the starsan/vinator folks. If I can get my entire bottling day (sanitize, bottle, cleanup) done in the time it takes the oven folks just to sanitize, it's a no brainer and not even worth trying for me.

The vinator makes a HUGE difference though. And a bottling tree. I actually don't really mind bottling day that much anymore since getting those two things.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SpaceportBP View Post
The temperature thing is interesting. Why do you have to bring it up to 338, when to get the "bugs" out of fruit, honey, and other additives in the secondary you use pasturization (sp) temps of only 150-170? Seems to me that the lowest heat to solve the problem would be the best option.
I'm certainly no scientist, so someone can correct me or fill in gaps in this, but I think there is a differnce between dry heat and pasteurizing liquids. When heat is applied to a liquid, it takes a very short time at a lower temp. Dry heat takes a much higher temp and a longer time to achieve the same results. I vaguely remember Palmer having a chart in How to Brew that talked about the science of it all.
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