No co2 after priming

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beer_master

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Today i open beer that was primed 2,5 weeks ago.
Beer seems flat as it was before i prime it,maybe little bit less,but still flat.
And i think there is not much alcohol in it.
Only last bottle had co2 in it ,i guess because it was near bottom where yeast is.

What could be the issue?
 
Today i open beer that was primed 2,5 weeks ago.
Beer seems flat as it was before i prime it,maybe little bit less,but still flat.
And i think there is not much alcohol in it.
Only last bottle had co2 in it ,i guess because it was near bottom where yeast is.

What could be the issue?

It's probably still very green. Did you take a gravity reading? Let the bottles ride for at least 4 weeks before you're critical with it. Buddy of mine opened one of his belgian strongs after only 2 weeks into the bottles and wanted to toss all of them since they were undercarb'd and fusel. Thank gawd I stopped him, because 4 weeks later he had a product that would make Chimay blush.
 
It's probably still very green. Did you take a gravity reading? Let the bottles ride for at least 4 weeks before you're critical with it. Buddy of mine opened one of his belgian strongs after only 2 weeks into the bottles and wanted to toss all of them since they were undercarb'd and fusel. Thank gawd I stopped him, because 4 weeks later he had a product that would make Chimay blush.

I took reading before i prime ,it was 1.009-1.010
 
Do you remember what your OG was? Sounds like you have alcohol regardless. Just let those bottles hang out in a cool, dark place for another few weeks. Your patience will be rewarded.
 
Do you remember what your OG was? Sounds like you have alcohol regardless. Just let those bottles hang out in a cool, dark place for another few weeks. Your patience will be rewarded.

Didnt take Starting gravity,at that time didnt have refractometer.
 
Out of curiosity, what did you sterilize the bottles with? If you used bleach and any happened to be left (and the original concentration was above the recommended levels) you could have killed the yeast. This isn't likely, but nevertheless I guess could happen in cases where the yeast concentration was low (except in the last bottle, like you stated).
Most people say that bottles will be carbonated in 2 weeks, as has been my experience. Most of my bottles start having an acceptable amount within a week, if I'm in a hurry to try one or two.
 
How did you add your priming sugar? How long was the brew in the primary or secondary before you primed?
 
Out of curiosity, what did you sterilize the bottles with? If you used bleach and any happened to be left (and the original concentration was above the recommended levels) you could have killed the yeast. This isn't likely, but nevertheless I guess could happen in cases where the yeast concentration was low (except in the last bottle, like you stated).
Most people say that bottles will be carbonated in 2 weeks, as has been my experience. Most of my bottles start having an acceptable amount within a week, if I'm in a hurry to try one or two.

I used betadine(Povidone-iodine ) ,used about 2 teaspoons on 20L+ i kind of rinsed it, with tap water before filling the bottles.

How did you add your priming sugar? How long was the brew in the primary or secondary before you primed?

Didint mix it with water, just dump it down the bottle then pour the beer in .
It was around 3 weeks( in primary only)
 
Didint mix it with water, just dump it down the bottle then pour the beer in .

If Im understanding this, you just added sugar to the bottles. You did not make a priming solution and add it to the bottling bucket (insert vessel) mix and then put brew in bottles. If this is the case I think we have found your problem.
 
If Im understanding this, you just added sugar to the bottles. You did not make a priming solution and add it to the bottling bucket (insert vessel) mix and then put brew in bottles. If this is the case I think we have found your problem.

For what it's worth, you don't have to mix the priming solution into the beer. Just rack the beer on top of it. But yeah, I'd have to agree with you if this is the case.
 
For what it's worth, you don't have to mix the priming solution into the beer. Just rack the beer on top of it. But yeah, I'd have to agree with you if this is the case.


I agree and that is the way I do it.

I am trying to understand if he just added sugar to the bottles. His post isn't very clear.
 
If Im understanding this, you just added sugar to the bottles. You did not make a priming solution and add it to the bottling bucket (insert vessel) mix and then put brew in bottles. If this is the case I think we have found your problem.


I didnt use bottling bucket.Out of the ferneter beer was syphoned directly to bottles(2l) which contain 10gr of dextrose each.SO you were right!
I had to mix it with water prior to mixing.I knew that , but i thought that was just for sugar sterilization .
 
What temperature did you store the bottles at? If you chilled the bottles, it will dramatically increase the carbonation time. Also, adding dextrose directly to the bottles will slow down carbonation a bit because the yeast cannot ferment the sugar before it is dissolved.

-a.
 
What temperature did you store the bottles at? If you chilled the bottles, it will dramatically increase the carbonation time. Also, adding dextrose directly to the bottles will slow down carbonation a bit because the yeast cannot ferment the sugar before it is dissolved.

-a.

good comments. you want those bottles to sit at 70-80 degrees F for 3 weeks to carbonate.

the sugar may not have dissolved, you might need to lay them on their side, and gently roll it back and forth to dissolve the sugar.

Also, you mention a refractometer....did you use this to take the final gravity reading of 1.009? If so, did you compensate for the alcohol? A refractometer reading of fermented beer is NOT accurate without doing some math. The presence of alcohol is what causes its reading to be off (because alcohol is lighter than water).
 
What temperature did you store the bottles at? If you chilled the bottles, it will dramatically increase the carbonation time. Also, adding dextrose directly to the bottles will slow down carbonation a bit because the yeast cannot ferment the sugar before it is dissolved.

-a.

I stored them at 20-24 Co.What do you mean by "if i chilled the bottles"?You mean to get them in the fridge.Or quick freez them for couple of hours to make them angry :)?



good comments. you want those bottles to sit at 70-80 degrees F for 3 weeks to carbonate.

the sugar may not have dissolved, you might need to lay them on their side, and gently roll it back and forth to dissolve the sugar.

Also, you mention a refractometer....did you use this to take the final gravity reading of 1.009? If so, did you compensate for the alcohol? A refractometer reading of fermented beer is NOT accurate without doing some math. The presence of alcohol is what causes its reading to be off (because alcohol is lighter than water).

I used it before i rack the beer in the bottles,nope didnt compensate alcohol,dont know how much of alcohol would be in the beer(if there is any ;) )
 
I stored them at 20-24 Co.What do you mean by "if i chilled the bottles"?You mean to get them in the fridge.Or quick freez them for couple of hours to make them angry :)?


I used it before i rack the beer in the bottles,nope didnt compensate alcohol,dont know how much of alcohol would be in the beer(if there is any ;) )

I was thinking you might have put them in the fridge to carbonate. With a name like yous, I should have known that you knew better. :)
But Malkore's comment about rolling the bottles back and forth is a good idea.

I'm really puzzled by your comment about using a refractometer to take a "gravity" reading just before racking the beer to the bottles without compensating for the alcohol. That just doesn;t make sense to me.
What were your brix readings before fermentation and at bottling time?

-a.
 
I was thinking you might have put them in the fridge to carbonate. With a name like yous, I should have known that you knew better. :)
But Malkore's comment about rolling the bottles back and forth is a good idea.

I'm really puzzled by your comment about using a refractometer to take a "gravity" reading just before racking the beer to the bottles without compensating for the alcohol. That just doesn;t make sense to me.
What were your brix readings before fermentation and at bottling time?

-a.

I used hydrometar after fermentation was done(i bought it a tthat time),so there was not much carbonation left to compensate,or im wrong maybe?

i didnt take gravity reading now,just before i put the beer in the bottles.
 
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