List of questions from a newbie (Equipment and Process)

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NWAleDad

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Hello HBT!

First off let me say that this place is awesome and i plan on upgrading my membership.

Now to the questions...

My first batch is in the fermenter for 3 days now.

1. I used the bucket with the spigot on the bottom as the fermenter per the instructions in the kit, what this correct? The other bucket has no spigot...

2. What is the benefit of using two fermenters (other than being able to brew more beer) and when is the correct time to transfer?

3. The fermentation on my batch seems to of stopped...but not sure how tot tell. I checked the fermenter and watched the valve on top for about 5 min and never saw a bubble come out. When i hold a light on the other side of the bucket to see the water and krausen level it appears to be no foam on top and right at the 5 gal level.

4. If I do indeed have a stuck fermentation process, what is the best way to resolve this issue?
 
I am a newbie also however here are my answers.

1. You used the bottling bucket as the fermenting bucket. Next time use the one without the spigot.

2. 2 fermenters equals more beer in the pipeline. I have not racked to a secondary yet and don't plan on it unless adding fruit, dry hopping.

3. How long did you have activity in the airlock? What temp is it at? What yeast? What kind of beer? Need more info.

4. Pitch yeast again if you are. - I think, might want a more experienced brewers opinion.
 
JRL said:
I am a newbie also however here are my answers.

1. You used the bottling bucket as the fermenting bucket. Next time use the one without the spigot.

2. 2 fermenters equals more beer in the pipeline. I have not racked to a secondary yet and don't plan on it unless adding fruit, dry hopping.

3. How long did you have activity in the airlock? What temp is it at? What yeast? What kind of beer? Need more info.

4. Pitch yeast again if you are. - I think, might want a more experienced brewers opinion.

#3 is on the right track. Was it bubbling before? If not, then *gently* swirl the bucket (with lid on) not splashing for a few seconds. Also, do you know what temp the wort was at when you pitched? That can lead to a slow start or dead yeasties.

Or . . . If it was bubbling before, you could be done. Did you use a starter? What kind of yeast did you use?

At this point it is rather convenient that you fermented in your bottling bucket. I suggest you open the spigot, collect some beer, test the gravity and react accordingly.
 
1. Yup, you used the bottling bucket as your fermenter, going to make bottling time interesting.

2. This is largely debated on this forum, lots of people say to leave it in your primary fermenter the whole time. Do a search and you will see a billion threads discussing if you should rack to secondary or not. Like JRL said its nice to have 2 fermenters so you can keep your pipeline going. I have 4.

3. Never judge fermentation based on airlock activity. The one and only way to see where your fermentation is at is to use a hydrometer.

4. After taking a reading with a hydrometer, if you are indeed at a stuck fermentation then give the bucket a gentle swirl (don't shake it to death) to get the yeast back in suspension. If you still have no luck then considering pitching again.

Still pretty new myself but those are pretty straightforward questions.
 
The wort was 68 when I pitched the batch. Lots of activity in the airlock 24hrs after pitching and it has slowly calmed down over the past three days. The range since Sunday in temp after pitching was 68-70.
 
You're fine then. Go hibernate for 3 weeks then come back and figure out how you're going to bottle. ;-)
 
A few more items, this was a starter kit my very first batch. It is a red ale with Nottingham yeast.
 
aseg said:
You're fine then. Go hibernate for 3 weeks then come back and figure out how you're going to bottle. ;-)

Thanks, can't I just bottle from this container, what is going to be difficult? Looking for advice :)
 
What are you brewing???

You won't really know it's done until you have at least two matching hydrometer readings, 2-3 days apart. Even then, TASTE it before you bottle it up...

As already mentioned, a good number of us here don't rack brews unless it's to add, or get off of, flavor elements or adjuncts. Such as if you've added oak chips, that have been in the wort for 3-5 weeks, and you want to add something else but don't want any more oak contribution. You would rack to another vessel and add the new element. Otherwise, let it RIDE in primary.

Personally, I let my brews sit on the yeast for at least 2-4 weeks. The taste test is the ultimate tool to determine if the brew is ready (after you've confirmed it's at FG)...

Fermenting in your bottling bucket is going to make things tricky for you. For one thing, chances are you'll have a yeast cake that will be at least up to the level of the spigot.

BTW, airlock activity is only an indication that enough CO2 is being created to fill the fermenter/primary and some needs to be vented in order to make room for more. Without letting that gas out, you won't get alcohol in the brew. I'm sure, if you ferment in buckets long enough, you'll have at least one time where you don't put the lid on 100% and just enough gas will escape from that spot, so that you get no airlock movements at all. ALWAYS check for fermentation with a hydrometer, or by looking at the wort itself. Looking at the wort is safer in a carboy than bucket. No need to open the lid, and risk contamination of the brew. Just pull the cover off the carboy and there you are...

There are at least a bazillion threads/postings going over all of this here... Read up on the methods, and why we do what we do... Look for posts by Revvy and Yooper especially...
 
Well the problem is that you are going to have a bunch of stuff down at the bottom of your bucket when you go to bottle. You don't really want to move the beer around at that point very much to avoid the risk of introducing too much oxygen. Also, you are going to have to mix the water/priming sugar solution into the beer before you bottle and that is best done by putting that into the bottling bucket first and then swirling your beer from the fermenting bucket into the bottling bucket by siphon.

I would be inclined to do the following when you go to bottle (I'm sure there may be other opinions): 1st carefully and gently siphon from the bottling bucket into the fermenting bucket. 2nd clean out and santitize the bottling bucket. 3rd prepare your water/priming sugar and put that in the bottling bucket. 4th siphon the beer very gently back into the bottling bucket.
 
OR, get a second bottling bucket, mix up your priming solution, put it in the bottom of the cleaned and sanitized new bucket, then rack the brew onto the priming solution. Bottle as normal from that point on... Less transfers, less risk of contamination, LESS WORK...

You'll just have two bottling buckets from that point on... Which you could always use later on for something. Or sell one of them to a person who's interested in brewing, so they don't need to get one as part of a kit... :D
 
I agree with MomsBrewing, but make sure you clean and sanitize the other bucket before you siphon your beer into it! Of course I like Golddiggie's idea also. Just make sure the other bucket is clean and sanitzed.
 
MomsBrewing said:
Well the problem is that you are going to have a bunch of stuff down at the bottom of your bucket when you go to bottle. You don't really want to move the beer around at that point very much to avoid the risk of introducing too much oxygen. Also, you are going to have to mix the water/priming sugar solution into the beer before you bottle and that is best done by putting that into the bottling bucket first and then swirling your beer from the fermenting bucket into the bottling bucket by siphon.

I would be inclined to do the following when you go to bottle (I'm sure there may be other opinions): 1st carefully and gently siphon from the bottling bucket into the fermenting bucket. 2nd clean out and santitize the bottling bucket. 3rd prepare your water/priming sugar and put that in the bottling bucket. 4th siphon the beer very gently back into the bottling bucket.

Thanks!
 
Golddiggie said:
What are you brewing???

You won't really know it's done until you have at least two matching hydrometer readings, 2-3 days apart. Even then, TASTE it before you bottle it up...

As already mentioned, a good number of us here don't rack brews unless it's to add, or get off of, flavor elements or adjuncts. Such as if you've added oak chips, that have been in the wort for 3-5 weeks, and you want to add something else but don't want any more oak contribution. You would rack to another vessel and add the new element. Otherwise, let it RIDE in primary.

Personally, I let my brews sit on the yeast for at least 2-4 weeks. The taste test is the ultimate tool to determine if the brew is ready (after you've confirmed it's at FG)...

Fermenting in your bottling bucket is going to make things tricky for you. For one thing, chances are you'll have a yeast cake that will be at least up to the level of the spigot.

BTW, airlock activity is only an indication that enough CO2 is being created to fill the fermenter/primary and some needs to be vented in order to make room for more. Without letting that gas out, you won't get alcohol in the brew. I'm sure, if you ferment in buckets long enough, you'll have at least one time where you don't put the lid on 100% and just enough gas will escape from that spot, so that you get no airlock movements at all. ALWAYS check for fermentation with a hydrometer, or by looking at the wort itself. Looking at the wort is safer in a carboy than bucket. No need to open the lid, and risk contamination of the brew. Just pull the cover off the carboy and there you are...

There are at least a bazillion threads/postings going over all of this here... Read up on the methods, and why we do what we do... Look for posts by Revvy and Yooper especially...

I posted earlier (or thought i did) I'm brewing a pale ale (top fermenting yeast) thanks for the extensive post, all great information I will continue to search the forum. Lots of great information.
 
Thanks everyone! I thought it was weird that the kit instructions called out that the fermentation bucket had a spigot...should have trusted my instincts, it was not until later that I found this super helpful forum.
 
Ale's, or brews using ale yeast: 2-4 weeks (minimum) on the yeast cake...

I didn't see it posted that this was an ale (or pale ale), which is why I had asked the question...

I think your safest bet is to let it finish where it is... Get another bottling bucket, use that to bottle (as already outlined) so you rack just once, then adjust your other processes.

I would also suggest getting at least one more primary/fermenter. Personally, I hate buckets for fermenting in. I know plenty of people love them. I prefer either carboy's, or corny kegs to ferment in. :D Fermcap-s can help you to eliminate foaming through the airlock in all of those. Look that up too. ;)

One thing is certain... Once you've been bitten by the home brewing bug, you're never the same. Get a few more batches under your belt (or over it as you drink more :D) and you'll get good experience.

Personally, I'm focusing on one region's styles for now. I know people focus all over the map. Basically brew what YOU like to drink. Get your hands on some clone recipes if you want to try and replicate some of the commercial brews out there (the better ones at least)... Those can go a decent way to helping friends/family understand your new obsession... I brought some of my first two batches up to my sister's/mother's place for xmas... Both good batches, both extract with specialty grains (I've since gone all grain), both were well received. Every family gathering, or time I visit family, now, I'll be bringing at least some home brew... If nothing else, at least I know I'll have something good to drink... :D
 
I have the bug...i already ordered a stout kit from home brewers outpost :rockin: i can't wait 2-4 weeks for to get another batch going, i think i will head to my LHBS this weekend and pick up another fermenter and bottling bucket. I already have a friend interested in the hobby as well, so i can give him the extra bottling bucket.

I did check the the instructions again and the parts list calls the bucket with the spigot out as the fermenter, i think i will call send the company an e-mail and outline the confusion. this really makes me feel like less of an idiot :eek:

There are so many beers i want to make...I feel like a kid in the candy store.
 
It's better than a candy store... You can make alcohol and it's LEGAL!!! :ban:

Just wait until you decide to go either partial mash, or all grain. :rockin: It does add a bit to your brew day/batch time, but I feel the results you get make it all worth it. You have more control over what you get. Which also means you can't blame anyone else for not getting something really good/great.

Also wait until you also discover you can make mead, hard cider, and even kick-ass hard lemonade (for the warmer months)... :D There's plenty of things you can make now that you know about fermenting... Problem is, figuring out WHICH to make first/next... :D :mug: :tank:
 
I plan on moving to a all grain, or partial mash process when i feel ready.
 
I’ve always used a primary with a spigot (still a rookie though). Why rack your beer from one bucket to another, if you don’t need to?
As others have said, air lock activity is just a sign of how much your yeast is farting, not what they’re doing.
“Yup, you used the bottling bucket as your fermenter, going to make bottling time interesting.” Actually, not at all. If you batch prime, add 2 cups of boiled water/priming sugar to the primary. Gently stir. Go sterilize your bottles. By the time you come back, everybody’s settled down and you can bottle. Three weeks in the bottle, some sediment in the bottom and you’re good to go.
“Never judge fermentation based on airlock activity. The one and only way to see where your fermentation is at is to use a hydrometer.” Amen, brother.
BTW, this hobby is like liquid crack!
 
It is super addictive. If you are going to get another fermenter may I suggest a 6.5 gallon glass carboy. That way you can see your beer as it ferments and you still have enough headroom to avoid blow-offs. Or use fermcap in a 5-6 gal carboy.

Be prepared to find a new tool or thing you want to purchase every week. I'm currently looking at stir plates and trying to find a keg to convert to a keggle so I can go all grain.

Read up on the forums there is tons of information and about a billion opinions and ways of doing things. Just figure out what works best for you. Good Luck.
 
I have the bug...i already ordered a stout kit from home brewers outpost :rockin: i can't wait 2-4 weeks for to get another batch going, i think i will head to my LHBS this weekend and pick up another fermenter and bottling bucket. I already have a friend interested in the hobby as well, so i can give him the extra bottling bucket.

I did check the the instructions again and the parts list calls the bucket with the spigot out as the fermenter, i think i will call send the company an e-mail and outline the confusion. this really makes me feel like less of an idiot :eek:

There are so many beers i want to make...I feel like a kid in the candy store.

If you can spare the cash, buy 2 more fermenting buckets while you are at the LHBS and save yourself a trip. I suspect that this hobby will become so addictive that you will want to have 3 brews in the fermenter at once and 4 wouldn't be out of the question. by having so many fermenters you can keep busy brewing so you don't get restless and bottle your beer too soon. Beer seems to like being in the fermenter much longer than the kit instructions tell you. You might want to pick up a couple extra kits too.:rockin:
 
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