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Old 06-23-2013, 05:21 PM   #1
bobbthebeerfrog
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Default First brew without using a kit // Seeking advice

My ultimate aim:

To brew a Hoppy as Hell American style Pale Ale such as: Sierra Nevada TORPEDO, Stewart's RADICAL ROAD, Brew Dog's JACKHAMMER. (or as close as I can)

What I've got:

2 x Coopers Amber Malt Extract Syrup 1.1 Litre
318g Crystal Malt barley (milled)
100g Centennial whole cone hops
100g Experimental 366 whole cone hops
35ml White Labs California Ale yeast (liquid)

What I've never done:

Using grain, adding hops to the boil, dry hopping.

I reckon I've got good ingredients and now I'm looking for a solid recipe to follow. If any of you experienced ladies or gents have recipe advice for me it would be gratefully received.

Bobb

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Old 06-23-2013, 05:40 PM   #2
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Not familiar with the Radical Road but the specs look like an IPA, the other two are American style IPA's not pale ales. How big is your batch size? If 5 gallons you probably need another can of extract. Also I would not go with amber. There is usually a lot of crystal and maybe some other character malts in there so you're likely going to end up too dark and sweet for an American IPA. You could keep the crystal steeping malt (what is the lovibond on that by the way?) and use all light or golden extract.

As far as hops, do you have the AA's?

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Old 06-23-2013, 06:46 PM   #3
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Most of these recipes are all-grain but you can find some extact recipes.

You can try these or these or these.

Brewing extract with steeping grains and adding hops to boil is easy. I've never dry hopped but I imagine that's easy too.

The steeping grains you just brew in a muslin sack like a giant cup of tea. (Keep below 180 to avoid tanins.)

Adding hops to the boil is just boiling the wort for an hour and adding the hops at certain times. (Hence a 20-minute addition hop that needs to boil for 20 minutes is added 20 minutes from the end of the boil or in other words 40 minutes into the boil.) Easy-peasy.

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Old 06-23-2013, 06:58 PM   #4
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If you're using the amber LME, you can ditch the caramel malt cuz the LME already has caramel/crystal malt in it. I'm not sure of the weight of a 1.1L can, but you might want more than two cans. Use an ounce or two (28-56g) of hops at the beginning of the boil, I'd go with the centennials. One hour boil. Add two oz's (56g) of hops at ten mins and five mins left in the boil. Cool and pitch yeast. After fermentation, dry hop with 56-112g of hops for 5-7 days before bottling.

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Old 06-23-2013, 06:59 PM   #5
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My two cents. Find a recipe that sounds good and buy the ingredients you need. Don't try to fit the ingredients you have into a recipe.

...yet...

Here's a recipe from these boards for a Sierra Nevada Torpedo clone.

And here's another.

Actually, you can switch to your California Ale yeast and it'd be really good. And the consensus seems to be that SN Torpedo has a lot of crystal for an IPA (so it might be a good recipe for using your crystal) but I have no opinion on that.

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Old 06-23-2013, 07:15 PM   #6
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I'm terrible with metric, but I'll give it a try!

First, do not use amber or dark extract- use the lightest extract you can find. Light, pale, or extra light is good.

If using liquid extract:

2.5 pounds LME (1 KG is close enough)
.75 pound crystal 40L (340 grams but your 318 grams is enough!)

Steep the grains, discard, and then add the extract. Bring to a boil.

add hops.
1 oz centennial hops 60 minutes (28 grams)
1 oz experimental hops 15 minutes (28 grams)
1 oz centennial hops 5 minutes (28 grams)
1 oz experimental hops 0 minutes (28 grams)

Add 5.5 pounds LME at flame out. (2.5 kg)

top up to 5 gallons with cool water when wort is chilled (19 liters total)

Should be an OG of 1.057, on the bottom for an IPA, but in the middle for an APA. Should be nice and hoppy!

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Old 06-23-2013, 11:02 PM   #7
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WOW, thanks for the tips guys.

HOPS:

Centennial 11.9%
Experimental 15.7%

I will chnge the Amber for Light Malt Extract.

I have been lent a 50L brew kettle by a friend.

@Woozy there are a lot of people stressing the temp at which you soak the grain at. It seems to be very precise. can you specify a temp of water and weight of grain to use? Also when boiling the hops in the wort is there a temperature to keep it between?

For dry hopping - I read that after the primary fermentation I can stick the hops in and leave it 10 days. But I was also told that after primary fermentation you should take it out of the primary vessel and bottle it ASAP. What are the facts? Can I dry hop in the primary vessel with all the gunk at the bottom for 10 days without the beer going bad?

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Old 06-23-2013, 11:29 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbthebeerfrog View Post
WOW, thanks for the tips guys.

HOPS:

Centennial 11.9%
Experimental 15.7%

I will chnge the Amber for Light Malt Extract.

I have been lent a 50L brew kettle by a friend.

@Woozy there are a lot of people stressing the temp at which you soak the grain at. It seems to be very precise. can you specify a temp of water and weight of grain to use? Also when boiling the hops in the wort is there a temperature to keep it between?

For dry hopping - I read that after the primary fermentation I can stick the hops in and leave it 10 days. But I was also told that after primary fermentation you should take it out of the primary vessel and bottle it ASAP. What are the facts? Can I dry hop in the primary vessel with all the gunk at the bottom for 10 days without the beer going bad?
You will steep the grain (your 318 grams is fine) in 66-72C water for 20 minutes. Then lift them out of the liquid (now called wort) and throw them away. Then bring that up to a boil, turn off the heat, and add the first amount of extract.

For boiling the wort, boiling is boiling. Temperature doesn't matter. Where I live, wort boils at 98.5C, but other elevations have different boiling temperatures. When it boils, it's a rolling boil not a simmer. The bubbles need to break the surface and roll over.

Once the beer is completely finished, and the beer is clear (about 10-14 days or so), then you can add your dryhops right to the fermenter. I never go as long as 10 days for dryhopping, as I think you get fresher flavor and aroma for dryhopping for 5-7 days, but you can if you want.

When you bottle, simply rack (siphon) from above the trub layer in the fermenter and it'll be fine.
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Old 06-23-2013, 11:38 PM   #9
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Yep, many of us dry hop in primary. You will read about risks of yeast autolysis and off flavors from leaving your beer too long in primary, but on the homebrew level with small fermenters it's probably not something to worry about. Lots of folks leave their beer in primary for 4 wks or more without ill effects - I've done it at times depending on schedule etc. and certainly haven't experienced problems. For long term aging you probably want to transfer to a secondary or package.

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Old 06-24-2013, 01:44 AM   #10
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@Woozy there are a lot of people stressing the temp at which you soak the grain at.

Actually, that's only when they are mashing all grains or partial grains when you mash (soak) grains for an hour to release fermentable sugars. Temperature matters for that.

But you aren't doing all-grain. When doing extracts all the sugars are in the extract so when one steeps grains for an extract batch one is just releasing color and flavor and that's much less precise and finicky precedure.

Yooper's instructions are, as always, spot on. but pretty much there is a lot of leeway. The only really important thing is to try to avoid 170+ temps as thats when astringent tanins start to leach out. If you *go* over 180 for a minute or two... well, don't panic. Just cut your losses and move on.
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