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Old 11-24-2008, 02:58 PM   #21
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Some random comments:

Even if you get 60% efficiency with this method it's still cheaper than extract, especially if you buy 55# bags of base grain. Dog food storage containers from the pet store can be used to store your grain.

I use aluminum pots for all my brewing. You can buy nice big aluminum pots at a restaurant supply store or online for <$50. The equipment forum has a sticky about aluminum vs stainless.

I use this method for 3 gallon batches which can be fermented in a Mr Beer or corny keg. My stove top won't boil 5 gallons, unfortunately (ceramic top).

If you are limited in your equipment, you can do a partial mash where, say, 75% of your fermentables come from grain and 25% from extract. BeerSmith will automatically convert AG to PM and will scale so they will fit your equipment.

Anytime you do a boil with grains I recommend using Whirlfloc or Irish Moss to coagulate proteins and clear the wort.

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Old 11-24-2008, 03:00 PM   #22
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Nice tutorial, a lot of good information there.

OT Question: Did you Nottingham yeast smell like rotten milk? I did a cream ale with it yesterday and it had the WORST smell.

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Old 11-24-2008, 03:12 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noremorse1 View Post
It varies but, I would say about 75% on average.
again, i can get up to 80% efficiency with this method if i use enough water.

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I use almost exactly the same method as you with a few exceptions. I wrap my SS kettle in a layer or two of tinfoil that is loose on the sides. I find leaving this gap of air keeps it from dropping temp as fast.
air is an excellent insulator. i was thinking of buying some ½" insulation to make a jacket for my keg mash tun. i always lose heat in there due to the extra head space.

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I leave it on the stove top with the stove setting on its lowest. This will not heat water fast at all yet seems to minimize my temp loss. Having a warm bottom is also why I find it necessary to stir to minimize any burning/carmalizing. However, this is just my paranoia because the burner temp is very low.
this works, i've also heard of people putting the entire pot in the oven, set to maintain their mash temperature.

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Lately I have been brewing partial and half-mashes. I just had major surgery so going outside in the cold setting up my all-grain system is a no go. Instead I opt for this method and really see no issues. I do prefer extracting my own wort from grain as opposed to extract but, using at least 3 pounds of grain in a recipe seems to work. Ive done side by side comparisons to extract with steeping grains and partial mashes and find the partials attenuate lower and taste better.
yep, plus there are so many more options...you can't brew a rye beer or an all-vienna smash with extract

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If you are looking for a great partial recipe, check out the one I put together in the recipe section. It is modeled after Bells 2 Hearted but I find it way better than all the other clones out there.

Again, awesome tutorial. The pics here will help TONS of extract guys get into all-grain I am sure.
thanks for your input. that's what's nice about this system...it's versatile. find out what works for you!
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Old 11-24-2008, 03:14 PM   #24
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Nice tutorial, a lot of good information there.

OT Question: Did you Nottingham yeast smell like rotten milk? I did a cream ale with it yesterday and it had the WORST smell.
fermentation is a pretty nasty process and can smell unpleasant at times. i wouldn't worry about it.

i've noticed nottingham can have a yeasty taste when the beer is green, but it settles with time...in the end it's a very clean yeast.
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Old 11-24-2008, 03:18 PM   #25
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fermentation is a pretty nasty process and can smell unpleasant at times. i wouldn't worry about it.

i've noticed nottingham can have a yeasty taste when the beer is green, but it settles with time...in the end it's a very clean yeast.
It was the actual dry yeast in the package when I opened it. Really intense spoiled milk smell.

The ale just started bubbling a little this morning, so I have not smelled it yet.
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Old 11-24-2008, 03:21 PM   #26
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that's odd, but may be nothing. i don't know that i've ever smelled it in the package.

like i said, yeast can be funky, but if you're unsure...it's always nice to have a backup.

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Old 11-24-2008, 04:43 PM   #27
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Awesome tutorial man. Just one thing... you want to stir during the mash to get better conversion. At least every 5 minutes.
As long as you stir well to begin with you shouldn't need to stir nearly this much. The loss in temp will way outweigh any benefit from the stirring.
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Old 11-24-2008, 04:49 PM   #28
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Death, I like all the pretty pictures.

Anyway another good tutorial. One thing: my stovetop will not handle more than 5 gals of boil volume either, (its not the btus but the weight, when I tried to put 9 gal on a single burner the burner cracked ominously and the whole stovetop started to sag.) To get around this I use two 5 gal pots and split the wort between the two. This way I can do I full sparge and full volume boil regardless of grain bill.

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Old 11-24-2008, 05:05 PM   #29
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yep! that's a good way to boil down a large volume:



i don't like to do that, tho, because cooling is a PITA.





i'm getting a wort chiller for the kitchen some time in the next few months. once i have that, it shouldn't be a problem any more. The one i have now uses garden hoses and leaks a little, so i'm not using it in my apartment.

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Old 11-24-2008, 05:34 PM   #30
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Hey DeathBrewer, could EdWort's Haus Pale Ale be done this way?


This is my Haus Pale Ale. A very quaffable beer that is very easy to make using basic ingredients and a dry yeast.

Grain Bill
8 lbs. 2-Row Pale Malt
2 lbs. Vienna Malt
0.5 lb. Crystal 10L Malt

Mash
Single Infusion mash for 60 minutes at 152 degrees.
I batch sparge in a 10 gallon water cooler with a stainless braid manifold. Click here for great info on Batch Sparging.
Dough-in with 3.5 gallons of water. After 60 minutes, add 5 quarts of 175 degree water and begin vorlauf. My system only takes about 2 quarts before it clears up, then it's wide open to drain in the kettle. Have another 3.25 gallons of 175 degree water ready for the next batch sparge. You should then get 6.5 gallons to your kettle for the boil.

I tend to think so, plus I thought it looked pretty easy to follow. I copied the recipe.

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