Can a fridge hold temp high as 55•F?

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BrewAmbition

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I am starting my first batch which is a bohemian pilsner lager and ferments best at 54•F. I live in Hawaii so I bought a mini fridge to ferment at such a low temp. Unfortunately the fridge still runs under 40•F at minimum power. Do all refrigerators run this way or did I get unlucky with the wrong fridge? If refrigerators won't work what other method should I use? Good advise is much appreciated. Thanks guys.
 
Yep... as you have already been directed... I use an upright freezer with a "Johnson Controls A419 Electronic Temperature Controls with Display"
 
Thx Caver. But i have to ask if you are sure this temp controller will force the fridge to run at 54F even if the fridge was previously capable of running no warmer than 40F at minimum power? Can a temp controller actually decrease the minimum power of a fridge to a warmer temp? Or is it simply a regulator for maintaining a steady desired temp within the bounds of whatever temperature the fridge is capable of running at?
 
The controller cycles the compressor on and off so it will maintain 55 at no problem with the proper controller.
 
Thx Frige. But can the temp controller actually decrease the power previously emitted by the compressor?
 
I think you are misunderstanding how a fridge and thermostat work. The thermostat does not slow the compressor down or speed it up rather it just turns it on and shuts it off at different temps. Most fridges do not use a thermostat that has the range to operate at warmer temps because who would use a fridge for food set at 60 degrees.

In short your fridge will work just the same at a warmer temp setting. It just will not turn on as often or run as long.
 
it works not by decreasing the power of the fridge, but by cutting the power to the fridge. you plug the fridge into the controller, controller into the wall socket, then put the sensor probe into the fridge. when it gets colder than you set it, it will turn the fridge off

turn the fridge down as low as it can go, it will still maintain whatever temp you set the controller to.

is what Varmintman said better than I did
 
Aaahh... Ok understood. The fridge will turn on and off to maintain set temp. Fortunately that will save me some dollars on my electric bill, but it seems like the temperature will inevitably fluctuate quite a bit if the fridge is being powered on and off so frequently.
 
And both of your replies were equally helpful by the way. Appreciate the support guys. Thank you.
 
I don't have any controller, but I'm sure there's a way to set a variance to it where it's not cycling power all the time.

set it to 52, but maintain 50-54, so it will chill down to 50, cut off, but then not turn back on until 54. and, it's insulated, so will take a while before it has to turn back on
 
Aaahh... Ok understood. The fridge will turn on and off to maintain set temp. Fortunately that will save me some dollars on my electric bill, but it seems like the temperature will inevitably fluctuate quite a bit if the fridge is being powered on and off so frequently.

Well no it will not run or turn off and on as much set a higher temp. Most fridge's have a 4 degree "window" that they operate within. Meaning that if you set the temp for 50 degrees it will not turn on until it hits 52 degrees and not shut off until 48 degrees. Many of the temp controllers that are digital you can alter that window size.

One would think that 4 degrees would be a bad thing but in reality it is not that big a deal when you are dealing with the thermal mass that we do.

And just for the record before I get flamed I am hung over and relying on memory when I stated 4 degree window:D
 
GrogNerd said:
no flames. there's still that window, whether it's 4 degrees or not is irrelevant

Agreed. Actually, I thought that the window on the external temp controllers could be quite a bit smaller, like +/- 0.5*. Not sure.
 
Aaahh... Ok understood. The fridge will turn on and off to maintain set temp. Fortunately that will save me some dollars on my electric bill, but it seems like the temperature will inevitably fluctuate quite a bit if the fridge is being powered on and off so frequently.

I built the ebay temp controller for around 20$ and I only get fluctuations by 0.3C (~0.5F). For example I keep my beer at 17.7C (64F) and it will slowly make it up to 18, then the compressor will start up, chill to 17.4 to start all over again. But when fermentation winds down the compressor rarely turns on. If you want to be closer you can add a heat source like a paint can with a light in it.
 
With a fridge, a heat source and a STC-1000 based temp-controller you can basically ignore the ambient temperature in your brewing area and ferment on your own terms all year round.
 
I am starting my first batch which is a bohemian pilsner lager and ferments best at 54•F. I live in Hawaii so I bought a mini fridge to ferment at such a low temp. Unfortunately the fridge still runs under 40•F at minimum power. Do all refrigerators run this way or did I get unlucky with the wrong fridge? If refrigerators won't work what other method should I use? Good advise is much appreciated. Thanks guys.

I must admit I'm impressed with OP taking on a Bohemian Pilsner as a first batch.

good luck! don't forget to update on your progress
 

A temp controller is a great purchase, but before you do this, try setting your fridge half way between the lowest setting and off.

I have a Sanyo mini fridge and my lowest setting is ~ 42 degrees, so I tried turning the knob closer to the "off" setting, and it maintains a perfect 52-55 which I check with my wireless digital thermometer. Right now it's at 53.7 degrees.

If this works, let us know.. I was very surprised it worked so well on my fridge.

Cheers!
 
On some tstats if you take the plastic cover off of the tstat itself you will find a small screw that you can calibrate the tstat with. Turn it a 1/4 turn at a time and let it run for a hour before you recheck the temp.
 
With a fridge, a heat source and a STC-1000 based temp-controller you can basically ignore the ambient temperature in your brewing area and ferment on your own terms all year round.

I agree with this. And it surprises me that most of the pre-made controllers don't offer heat and cold (unless you take it apart and move jumpers around for heat...then reverse them for cold).

I have seen youtube videos of people making their own that offers both heat/cold without it being a hassle.
 
I agree with this. And it surprises me that most of the pre-made controllers don't offer heat and cold (unless you take it apart and move jumpers around for heat...then reverse them for cold).

I have seen youtube videos of people making their own that offers both heat/cold without it being a hassle.

+1.

I've built two control boxes using the STC-1000 dual temp controller (one on my fermenter freezer and one on my 3-tap keezer). The control unit costs a whopping $20 shipped from Amazon. All you have to add is a standard household outlet/cover and some kind of project box (I used the housing from an old computer speaker). It's pretty darn easy and they give you precise temp control for fermenting, cold crashing, lagering, etc.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ebay-aquarium-temp-controller-build-163849/



All you have to do to your fridge is plug it into the outlet on the control box.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
+1.

I've built two control boxes using the STC-1000 dual temp controller (one on my fermenter freezer and one on my 3-tap keezer). The control unit costs a whopping $20 shipped from Amazon. All you have to add is a standard household outlet/cover and some kind of project box (I used the housing from an old computer speaker). It's pretty darn easy and they give you precise temp control for fermenting, cold crashing, lagering, etc.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ebay-aquarium-temp-controller-build-163849/

All you have to do to your fridge is plug it into the outlet on the control box.

This is what I use and I recommend you use. Super easy to build and works great.
 
If you put the freezer outside, and it gets colder than what you want, then this method doesn't work. You'll have to add some kind of heating element inside the fridge/freezer.
 
If you put the freezer outside, and it gets colder than what you want, then this method doesn't work. You'll have to add some kind of heating element inside the fridge/freezer.

That's exactly why I use an STC-1000. It's a dual temperature controller.

Once you combine it with a standard wall outlet, you have a controller box that has plugs for both cooling and heating. Simply plug the fridge/freezer into the cooling plug and a heat source (like this -http://brewstands.com/fermentation-heater.html) into the heating plug. Put the heat source inside the freezer, set the temp you want, and it maintains it for you. The default tolerance is +/-0.5*C which I've found to work just fine.
 
That's exactly why I use an STC-1000. It's a dual temperature controller.

Once you combine it with a standard wall outlet, you have a controller box that has plugs for both cooling and heating. Simply plug the fridge/freezer into the cooling plug and a heat source (like this -http://brewstands.com/fermentation-heater.html) into the heating plug. Put the heat source inside the freezer, set the temp you want, and it maintains it for you. The default tolerance is +/-0.5*C which I've found to work just fine.

What's a good heat source? In the mountains here, it can get very cold in the winter.
 
What's a good heat source? In the mountains here, it can get very cold in the winter.

I like that DIY paint can heater (link above). You can adjust the intensity of the heat it puts out simply by switching to a different wattage light bulb.

Since it's inside an enclosed, insulated space, it has plenty of "oomph" to maintain the temp even if it's really cold outside.
 
What's a good heat source? In the mountains here, it can get very cold in the winter.

I use a heat belt. I attach it and the STC-1000 probe directly to my plastic fermenters. When using glass carboys I let the belt and the probe just hang there. In my small chest freezer the heat belt works fine. There are cheaper options than a heat belt (paint can heater) but if you already have one (like I did) you are good to go.
 
but it seems like the temperature will inevitably fluctuate quite a bit if the fridge is being powered on and off so frequently.

Not really. Depending on the type of controller u use, u can set it to turn back on with 1-3 degrees. I'd recommend keeping it on the low end and have it turn off/on within the 1 degree mark. I'd also recommend using a fan to circulate the air around the carboy as well, that'll help maintain a steady and consistent temp.
 
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