So I am building a mash tun, How do I use it?

TheH2 · 01-02-2008, 08:53 PM

Since I'm building it based on this: Although I plan on using a 5 gallon cooler.
http://www.homebrewtalk.com//showthread.php?t=23008

I don't have instructions on how to use it.

So, after the mash I drain the wort. What stops it from getting stuck?

Then I sparge (batch sparge). Do I do this by adding the water (at the right temp), briefly stirring and then drain? I obviously don't want to stir much, right? Seems like the converted cooler would result in a stuck sparge. Is there something else I need to do?

Basically my question is: don't I need some sort of false bottom? I'm about 10 pages through a 28 page thread and am confused about how to do the false bottom.

Thanks,

I plan on building this tonight or tomorrow (seems more likely) and brewing the fat tire clone (very excited about the Fat Tire Wyeast) this weekend. I've done two partial mashes so far with kitchen equipment and look forward to having a mash tun.

beergears · 01-02-2008, 08:59 PM

http://cruisenews.net/brewing/index.php

All you need (quoting BM!)

Get cracking!

**Orfy** · 01-02-2008, 09:00 PM

If you use the braid you don't need either a false bottom or a manifold.

jdoiv · 01-02-2008, 09:01 PM

The braided hose is what separates the grain and liquid. It shouldn't stick provided your crush isn't too fine or you use too much wheat (in which case you use rice hulls in the mash to break things up). You can stir as much as you like, provided you aren't currently draining it. Otherwise you are likely to get some husks through the braid.

I suggest reading www.howtobrew.com where a nice walkthrough is presented on the AG process.

**bradsul** · 01-02-2008, 09:02 PM

The stainless steel braid is used in place of a false bottom. It's actually pretty difficult to get a sparge stuck with a SS braid.

Give www.howtobrew.com a good read to get all the details on mashing, it's your best friend (except for this forum of course

).

**Orfy** · 01-02-2008, 09:07 PM

Look at this wealth of info.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Mash

TheH2 · 01-02-2008, 09:18 PM

Wow, that was fast. Nice to know I won't need a false bottom with this setup.

Thanks for all your responses. It looks like I have some good reading for the metro ride home.

Thanks again.

Ender · 01-03-2008, 03:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdoiv

The braided hose is what separates the grain and liquid. It shouldn't stick provided your crush isn't too fine or you use too much wheat (in which case you use rice hulls in the mash to break things up). You can stir as much as you like, provided you aren't currently draining it. Otherwise you are likely to get some husks through the braid.

Ya know, I see this everywhere and used to do it myself. Vourlauf, stir in sparge h2o and then let it sit 10 mins and drain it again. From Denny's webiste though he says he stirs again right before he vourlaufs the sparge water. Only place I've seen this. Did it a few time, but havent noticed any real difference.

Blender · 01-03-2008, 03:14 AM

I would get a bigger cooler than a 5 gallon as it will leave you some room for higher grain bills. Read this page too. >> http://hbd.org/cascade/dennybrew/

**cowgo** · 01-03-2008, 04:29 AM

I just built my Coleman Extreme Cooler mash tun with parts from Lowe's as described here:

http://brewing.lustreking.com/gear/mashtun.html

I think it will be great for every conceivable 5 gallon batch and most 10 gallon batches. 35 bucks for the cooler from Dicks Sporting Goods and 15 bucks for the parts from Lowe's for an awesome mash tun that will last a long time

It's "extremely" insulated for better temperature control and check out the pictures on the drain. That's right... the drain slopes down towards the spigot. Mash, mash mash and tilt ever so slightly and you get ALL the sweet wort.