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Old 06-21-2005, 04:42 PM   #11
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Yea, the hardware store love's to see me come in:

Try Lowe's. I brought my cooler in Lowe's with me to make sure everything fit, and I could see what I had before I brought it home and forgot something. This worked for me: 1/2in. brass ball valve. Use the rubber washers you already had to make a seal. You can get a coupler that will hold the 1/2 manifold inside the cooler. On the outside spout use a brass hose barb size 1/2-3/8 or just use a 1/2 hose barb and don't open the valve all the way during sparge. Per Orrelse's instructions, soak the brass fittings in 2:1 solution of vinegar:hydrogen peroxide to clean any lead off the brass. The solution will turn blue. I hope this makes sense, as I was at your point three days ago. I wish I could post pics because reading this may have you more confused. sorry.

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Old 06-21-2005, 04:57 PM   #12
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yea, I'm using the brass hose barb size 1/2-3/8. Wasn't using a ball valve as I already had an inline 3/8 valve (plastic) I was going to use but could look at the ball valve... would be cleaner. As to washers I already have, think that is part of the problem; not big enough for a decent seal. You get washers at Lowes for this? I struggled locating... Plumbing repair at least at HD is where I was at.

Cooler to Lowes is a good idea... as are pictures but oh well.

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Old 06-21-2005, 05:24 PM   #13
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I used the orginal rubber washers from the cooler, as well as ss 1/2id washers for a tighter fit. However, Lowe's did have the washers I need in hardware, I was looking in plumbing forever. I orignally had plastic valves, but there was some concern if they were food grade or would hold up to extreme temperatures so I switched out to brass.

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Old 06-21-2005, 05:55 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Born Brewing Co.
I used the orginal rubber washers from the cooler, as well as ss 1/2id washers for a tighter fit. However, Lowe's did have the washers I need in hardware, I was looking in plumbing forever. I orignally had plastic valves, but there was some concern if they were food grade or would hold up to extreme temperatures so I switched out to brass.
Thanks Born. Cooler is heading to Lowes so I can "git er done" with a ball valve. I might take a picture or 3 and post them online. This shouldn't be that tricky; maybe its me working 12h days then trying to do this at night in a garage at 190 degrees! (ok, 107 but who counts after 100)
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Old 06-21-2005, 06:14 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertBrew
This shouldn't be that tricky; maybe its me working 12h days then trying to do this at night in a garage at 190 degrees! (ok, 107 but who counts after 100)

Man that sounds exactly like when I did mine.....YUCK.

I'm putting together a list with the exact parts I used to do mine. The hardest part was finding washers so I used the original washers as well.

If I knew what the parts were named, I'd do it now....
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Old 06-22-2005, 09:43 PM   #16
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Default Gott Cooler Plumbing Parts

Well I took the cooler over to Ace Hardware; better service and myself and two other dudes in red vests came up with this below. Actually works great and is a very clean looking fit. Everything was in the plumbing and toilet repair area. Only thing that needed a little retrofiting was the rubber washers. Had to cut them a bit on the inside to fit the thread. (looks like I got that rubber washer on the right in the wrong sequence )




Note the slots are down Actually I haven't cut them yet!

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Old 06-22-2005, 11:00 PM   #17
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Hey DesertBrew, Your manifold looks real similiar to mine. Mines a litte longer though .<hehe>. Only difference is I took 6 3/4 " tees and made 3 cross pieces of 3/4" pipe across the middle of the manifold. Since then I have never had a stuck mash.

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Old 06-22-2005, 11:17 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DBAib12
Hey DesertBrew, Your manifold looks real similiar to mine. Mines a litte longer though .<hehe>. Only difference is I took 6 3/4 " tees and made 3 cross pieces of 3/4" pipe across the middle of the manifold. Since then I have never had a stuck mash.
I was thinking of adding another piece through the center to give it a bit more surface area coverage. Your idea sounds pretty good though, Maybe I'll add two. This is the easy part (except cutting). I'm just happy to have the friggen plumbing connectors solved!

I've never done AG yet so figured I'd be doing some adjusting. I bought the Phil's sparge arm and to me that seemed like a more/equally important device for good efficiency.
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Old 06-22-2005, 11:20 PM   #19
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Looks great!!

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Old 06-22-2005, 11:53 PM   #20
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Yep...looks super!!!

The only thing I did differently was I used a plastic piece that I found in the plumbing section for a spacer. The washers that came with my cooler actually worked better than anything I could find because they had lips on them that made a perfect seal to the cooler.

One note--when you assemble that--don't overtighten. I'd make it just over finger tight for everything, fill it with water to make sure there are no leaks. If you DO have a leak, tighten a tiny bit more and re-test.

Oh yeah, don't forget to soak the brass pieces in vinegar and hydrogen peroxide!!!

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