Mash Tun Drain Problems

Hey guys relatively new to AG brewing, have done a few bag brews but about 3 brews ago I decided to make a mash tun... (I do 5 gal batches btw)
Used this link to make the mash tun

How to Build The BEST Mash Tun from a Beverage Cooler



Used a slightly different set up. Used a rectangle cooler, about 12 gal in size, instead of the upright barrel style shown in the video. Used a water heater stainless steel braid like it says in the video, it's very sturdy and defiantly isn't kinking or being crushed by the grain. All went well, sealed fine, was looking good.
Until I went to do mash outs.
This next part happened on all 3 of the AG batches I did. I start by collecting some run off and pouring it back in settling the grain bed. Did this because I was told to settle the grain bed and to make sure the grain runs clear, even though I have never seen particles in the line.
Always starts out draining at a decent speed (or at least a speed I can't complain about) then after like a min slows to almost a stop (or a complete stop). Sparging was basically the same. Each time it would slow to almost nothing (or literally nothing) and I would have to end up constantly stirring around the mash and scraping the braid to get any flow. Last brew I said screw it and before I sparged I took the SS braid off and used a very very fine mesh stainer to filter out the rest

Now what am I doing wrong lol I have looked everywhere on this site for an answer.

I can't see it being the grain bed compacting, since the sparge does the same and I have made sure not to drain to quick causing it to compact.

Is it possible the SS braid is to fine? Since there is never particles coming threw.

I noticed that my bags of grained mill have some powder in the bottom. Should I be sifting out my grain after it is milled and tossing this powder?

I will include some pics of the SS braid and set up when I get home tonight in hopes of some help.

PLEASE HELP guys I can't stand not brewing because of this.

I have a similar setup and it works fine. The first gallon, I pull, it is usually very cloudly, and float it back on top and wait 5 - 10 minutes for the bed to set. There is powder in my grain as well. I throw it in, it is usually filtered out by the grain bed.

Does jiggling the valve open/closed fix the flow rate? Sometimes my valve gets a bit clogged. But, Im leaning towards your braid is too fine, post a picture.

Here are a few pics

That looks a lot finer than mine for what it is worth.

giraffe said:

That looks a lot finer than mine for what it is worth.

Click to expand...

could you post a pic of yours?

I cant. because im at work, and I brew at a friends house. But It is similar to this.http://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCra...3&ci_sku=205214613&ci_gpa=pla&ci_src=17588969

Though now im having doubts, cause they look pretty similar.

Hmmm well if you can compare the two when you get home and or send a pic that would be awesome... Thanks btw

Add this thread to the list of threads that contain variants of the phrases "steel braid" and "stuck sparge."

I started with a steel braided tube for my mash tun and dumped it after three stuck sparges. They're just not good. There are way better materials out there that cost about the same and give you much more dependability. Yes, there are people that will say, "but I've got a steel braid and it works just fine for me!" That's nice. But the failure rate of these things need to be addressed and I think as a community we need to discourage people from using them because of this high failure rate.

I highly recommend making a manifold out of CPVC 1/2" tubing and drilling a bunch of holes in the tubing. Once I did that I never had a stuck sparge.

I had a similar problem with the braid that I was using was collapsing when a siphon was started (drain tube full with end submerged in kettle). I switched to a bazooka tube which is much more rigid and haven't had a problem since.

I was having a similar issue, with the larger Water heater hose braid. I just went down in size to a normal supply line and it works 1000 times better. Not sure if the larger diameter was collapsing under the weight of the grain or what, but the smaller line seems to have worked wonders.

When I first started brewing, I tried all the braided hoses & manifolds I could find directions for on the internet. But every time I had a sticky mash (usually rye or wheat), I got a stuck sparge. I finally bit the bullet and purchased a false bottom & haven't had a stuck sparge since.

Clonefan94 said:

I was having a similar issue, with the larger Water heater hose braid. I just went down in size to a normal supply line and it works 1000 times better. Not sure if the larger diameter was collapsing under the weight of the grain or what, but the smaller line seems to have worked wonders.

Click to expand...

I think diameter and length of the braid and tubing has alot to do with it. I never had a problem with my 3/8" OD tube running out of the cooler, but switched up to a 5/8" OD tube and got stuck. If I run the 5/8" half-open...no problems.

I think general advice should be go with a relatively short braided hose, and a small diameter drain tube for best results. You may have to play with it to get a sweet spot where you can drain the tun in a reasonable amount of time without sticking the mash.

Use a handful of rice hulls. I was having trouble with the same thing and started using rice hulls and it solved the issue.

I had issues sometimes with my past setup with the steel braid. I had to "compress" the braid before mashing in to open it up per say... If it was stretched out, it drained for ****. It would take an hour sometimes to drain. Compressing the braid allowed the wort to flow better but still did it's job filtering. Just a thought on something to try


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Spend $12 and buy a bazooka tube. I've never had a stuck sparge with mine and they are sturdy enough to support a lot of grain. Last weekend I made a rye kolsch with 20% rye and had no issues; and I can say that was a VERY sticky mash.


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LandoLincoln said:

Add this thread to the list of threads that contain variants of the phrases "steel braid" and "stuck sparge."

I started with a steel braided tube for my mash tun and dumped it after three stuck sparges. They're just not good. There are way better materials out there that cost about the same and give you much more dependability. Yes, there are people that will say, "but I've got a steel braid and it works just fine for me!" That's nice. But the failure rate of these things need to be addressed and I think as a community we need to discourage people from using them because of this high failure rate.

I highly recommend making a manifold out of CPVC 1/2" tubing and drilling a bunch of holes in the tubing. Once I did that I never had a stuck sparge.

Click to expand...

Took your advice... Took apart the mash tun and made a new manifold with 1/2" CPVC like you suggested. Took forever to drill the 702 1/16" holes that are 1/16" apart lol

chefderekvann said:

Took your advice... Took apart the mash tun and made a new manifold with 1/2" CPVC like you suggested. Took forever to drill the 702 1/16" holes that are 1/16" apart lol

Click to expand...

Now they know how many holes it takes to fill the Albert Hall...

702? You counted? You gotta provide a pic of your new manifold.