Fly sparge too difficult for first time AG?

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Dr_Horrible

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I found a deal on someone's old AG equipment (2 10G coolers fully converted with valve/false bottom and fly sparge). I am planning on using this to transition into AG brewing.

However, after reading some stuff here, maybe people recommend BIAB and batch sparge because they're easier and require less equipment. I'm still willing to give fly sparge a try unless you guys think it's not a good idea for entry into AG?
 
If you can manage the flow rates properly you should be fine. The alternative would be batch sparging but if you have the equipment don't bother with BIAB (not that there is anything wrong with BIAB). BIAB is usually recommend for someone wanting to try all grain without having to purchase more equipment.
 
If you have the equipment, it is easy to Fly Sparge. just float 1" - 2" of liquid atop the grain, and even the flow into and out of the mash tun so that you drain all your volume in about an hour.

Just a little practice, not hard.
 
Fly sparging isn't bad at all. I am drinking a fantastic IPA that I fly sparged. :D

Just be patient. I would run a practice batch with water to see how things go and to get used to small nuances. Or just run a batch of something simple where you focus more on the process.
 
Fly sparge will just require some attention. Watch to make sure you maintain 1"-2" of water on top of the grain bed. Super easy. I've always fly spared, always will. Also keep an eye on how fast your brew pot is filling up. Keep it from running too fast to try and boost efficiency.
 
Its really easy... just as easy as batch sparging... just takes a bit more time. Just make sure you understand the process going in I almost always batch sparge but think my fly sparges brews come out just a bit better. The maltiness seems richer in my opinion
 
OP,

Fly sparging just requires attention to make sure you're not:

1--Filling the MT too fast leading to an overflow

or

2--Draining the MT too fast so that you don't have liquid above the grain bed.

Other than that it's no harder than batch sparging. Batch sparging was much more labor intensive for me. I enjoy fly sparging and would never go back to batch sparging.

To Everyone else,

I've heard all this about not sparging too fast. I do 10g batches and I finish fly sparging in about 40min. I get a very consistent 83% efficiency, which I'm perfectly happy with. Have there been any experiments that substantiate the incredibly slow flow rates many here advocate? I mean, we're just rinsing sugar off grain, right? I don't understand why going really slow as opposed to moderately slow would make any difference.
 
It shouldn't be too daunting to fly sparge. But, if it makes you too nervous you can do a batch sparge in your system.

I set my up my system with a water line braid and I have read that it will channel if trying to fly sparge so I have only done batch sparging.
 
OP,

Fly sparging just requires attention to make sure you're not:

1--Filling the MT too fast leading to an overflow

or

2--Draining the MT too fast so that you don't have liquid above the grain bed.

Other than that it's no harder than batch sparging. Batch sparging was much more labor intensive for me. I enjoy fly sparging and would never go back to batch sparging.

To Everyone else,

I've heard all this about not sparging too fast. I do 10g batches and I finish fly sparging in about 40min. I get a very consistent 83% efficiency, which I'm perfectly happy with. Have there been any experiments that substantiate the incredibly slow flow rates many here advocate? I mean, we're just rinsing sugar off grain, right? I don't understand why going really slow as opposed to moderately slow would make any difference.

^^^^ This. It is really quite simple. And yes, you can go as fast as you wish as long as the grain bed doesn't compact. Going slower than you need to just wastes time.
 
I do sort of a hybrid fly-ish pour-through sparge with my BIAB setup. Most of my brews start with 7.5 - 8 gal of water. I mash with around 4 gal (depending on grain bill) and do an infusion mash out with about 6-8 qts. This leaves 8-10 qts for my sparge. Once mashout is done, I raise the grain bag (inside a turkey fryer basket) and let it drain into the BK. A pulley set up is a huge help. At this point I rest my "sparge bucket" (the bottom half of a Home Depot bucket) into the top of the basket. It fits perfectly and has several dozen tiny holes drilled in the bottom. I pour my sparge water in this and it trickles through the grain. It usually takes 30-40 minutes to empty the sparge bucket. I typically turn on the stove (yes, it will boil 7 gal) halfway through and it's just about ready to boil once the sparge is done.
 
Its pretty easy. I started out on AG and fly sparging.
+1
When I started brewing all-grain, NO ONE batch sparged or did BIAB. So it's possible to start with fly sparging. BIAB is easier, and batch sparging the next easiest IMO, but no reason, if you're buying ready-made, that you can't start with continuous sparge.
 
If your mash tun can handle the volume, you can put all your sparge water into it in a matter of minutes. In my home cooler mash tun, this means about five minutes just pouring the sparge water over a wooden spoon so as not to dig into the bed. On my commercial system, I run the sparge slowly for about 10-15 minutes to make sure there is a buffer of water over the grain so that it doesn't dig into it when I turn the pump up, then I crank it to full speed until it's done. Have been using this process since the mid 90s, works great. In short, you don't have to worry about balancing the sparge-in to wort-out flow rates, just don't let the grain go dry and you're good.
 

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