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Old 10-27-2012, 08:14 AM   #861
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This may have been answered somewhere in the preceding 84 pages, but in case it hasn't: How do you cut the bevel in the tip of the racking cane? Hacksaw? Hot knife? Table saw? Dremel? What's the best way to get a clean cut?
80 grit sand paper at an angle, then smoothed it with finer sand paper. It took me less than a minute. That plastic does NOT hold up well against sand paper.
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Old 10-30-2012, 03:05 AM   #862
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Just used this method and it seemed to work great other than the beer I wanted to keg was in a pin lock and I made one with a ball lock .....DUH


Guess I will make another

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Old 11-03-2012, 06:00 PM   #863
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Thanks BierMuncher, I just bottled 24 of your Centennial Blondes and 12 of the house IPA to take to a party.
The process went smooth and worked perfect. Lost less the 1/4 cup of beer.

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Old 11-09-2012, 03:47 AM   #864
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I know some carbonation is lost during any bottling process, so if I am bottling a cider that I want at 2.7 vols of co2, what should I carbonate it to? I planned on going to 2.85 or something close.

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Old 11-12-2012, 02:19 PM   #865
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I successfully bottled a number of bottles and growlers just using the bottling cane attached to the dispensing faucet, pretty much fits exactly but I did notice that it was helpful to not even start dispensing until you had the cane inserted in the faucet and then had the cane all the way down in the bottom of the bottle/growler allowing it to be open before you flip the faucet on to pour, other wise you will shoot the bottling cane out of the faucet insert thus causing spillage and stickiness.

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Old 11-13-2012, 03:56 AM   #866
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The other thing I noticed using this method my beers come out crystal clear

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Old 11-13-2012, 05:09 PM   #867
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Originally Posted by ThorGodOfThunder View Post
I know some carbonation is lost during any bottling process, so if I am bottling a cider that I want at 2.7 vols of co2, what should I carbonate it to? I planned on going to 2.85 or something close.
You really shouldn't lose much if you a) dispense under very low pressure (barely enough to push the beer) and b) keep everything as cold as possible from the keg to the beer line to the bottles. I don't change the carbonation at all and the first beer I ever entered in a competition won best of show. So I don't sweat the carbonation loss too much.
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Old 11-14-2012, 02:17 PM   #868
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Cool, thanks Bacon. When I bottle this batch I intend to wait for a pretty cold day out (low 40s at least) and let everything sit outside overnight to get cold. Then I'll just bottle it on my deck so everything stays consistently chilled over the bottling process. I don't know what I'll do in the summer, but we'll figure it out then.

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Old 11-25-2012, 09:51 PM   #869
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just made one of these today. it was quick and lovely. i will say that it wasn't mess-free though.

even with the worm clamp over my picnic faucet, it dripped slowly. plus after every squirt, there's the slow drain from the racking cane. i did it myself however. so with assistance it would have been better.

I also found that i needed to constantly "burp" the bung to allow excess pressure to release. no biggie though

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Old 11-27-2012, 02:53 PM   #870
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So I just got back some score sheets from a competition I entered (foamcup.us) The 3 entries I used this method with all had comments about oxidation flaws...from 6 separate judges. I had two other entries where I didn't use this method and didn't get the comments.

I did do the put the cap on flip up over and purge the oxygen before capping. So not sure what was up. I didn't get ding for low carbonation or anything like that.

One of my brewing buddies mentioned he got the same comments using the same method....anyone else deal with this issue using the method...Personally I'm a little shock such a small amount of oxygen can cause oxidation in a week. Put I can't think of anything else that would of caused it...it was great coming out of the keg....maybe bottles weren't rinsed well enough???

Thoughts???

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