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#1 | |||
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Post Hoc Ergo Propter Hoc
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Michigan HBT'ers, come check in at; Quote:
Last edited by Revvy : 02-18-2009 at 06:20 PM. |
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#2 | |
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Post Hoc Ergo Propter Hoc
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I wanted to add a few more notes and a couple more pictures.
To illustrate how each brewer should tweak a process (any one, not just bottling) until it works for them, Grinder1200 took my idea of mounting the wand on his bucket, and added it to using his dishwater as a bottle filling rack. (I don't have a dishwater in my cubbyhole kitchen, but if I did, I would probably do the same thing..though I do enjoy sitting to bottle.) Note the OTHER addition to his bottling setup...the nice glass of beer!!! ![]() A lot of people have asked where I got the clamps for the the wand. I get these from my lhbs, to clamp the wand to my sigot, I use a 1 inch "bridge" piece of bottling hose....If the LHBS doesn't have them, I'm sure you can find them a a hardware store too...it's nice because there is no worry about rusting, of the fact that sometimes the screw is galvanized. ![]() I don't label unless I'm giving bottles away as gifts, then I don't use traditional labels, I bottle hanging tags. I designed the template and it is freely available online. Thanks to Morotorium After looking all day for hanging tags templates for bottles, I made up one of my own as a MS word Document. ![]() Each tag is approx 2 inches wide, and the text area after the fold is about 5 inches. I don't like to glue labels on, especially since I spend so much time removing them (Although some folks swear by milk as label glue). So I like the idea of a hanging tag that slips over the neck of the bottle and hangs there. I printed it out on thick photopaper. All you need to do is cut them out, cut out the hole for the neck (or just make 2 slits at the cross) and fold it downword. You just basically need to stick a graphic in each space, and add your own text to the text blocks...Or move stuff around and add your own text boxes wherever you want it. Here's the links from MoRoToRiUm Sample Template When I bottle I just write on the bottlecap with a sharpie a letter code for the name of the beer I brewed. For Example, Old Bog Road (my brown ale) is simply OBR...If I have multiple batches of the same beer going at the same time, I will add a letter code as well. Again, there are plenty of ways to do just about every aspect of brewing, and the trick is to make it work for you. This is a hobby, not something to do battle with. Even something that some people consider a pain, such as bottling can become as effortless as you choose to make it. All it takes it experimentation; trying something new until it works for you. ![]()
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Michigan HBT'ers, come check in at; Quote:
Last edited by Revvy : 01-16-2009 at 03:25 PM. |
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#3 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 383
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I stole your idea for the short section of hose to attach the bottling wand and use the dishwasher for spill collection and it works out very nicely. I just pull up a chair and my bottle tree with sanitized bottles and my empty cases and have at it. Thanks for the nice write-up.
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Quote:
Primary: BR Brown Ale Drinking: Irish Red, Belgian Wit, Brown Ale, EW's Apfelwein Bottled: Scottish Wee Heavy '09 ytd total - 25 gallons |
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#4 |
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Circle City Brewing
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I have one tip for bottlers... buy some kegs.
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For more DIY projects, musings, calculators and experiments see www.BrewersFriend.com HDPE Primary1- AIR HDPE Primary2- CCB Munich Helles Lager v1.0 Secondary- AIR Keg1- OctoberFeast (no chill ON TAP) Keg2- Hugh Hefeweizen "no chill" (ON TAP) Keg3- Orange/Cascade IAPA (no chill) Keg4- Fire In The Hole (7.0%) Keg5- Circle City Haus Ale (4.3%) Keg6- CCB Pils v1.0 Keg7- AIR Keg8- AIR "Everybody has to believe in something.....I believe I'll have another drink." -W.C. Fields |
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#5 | ||
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Post Hoc Ergo Propter Hoc
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Quote:
What do you clap yours with? It would be nice to know in case others can't find my plastic clamps.
__________________
Michigan HBT'ers, come check in at; Quote:
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#6 | |
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Post Hoc Ergo Propter Hoc
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Hey gang didn't I tell ya??? Revvy's law of bottling thread dynamics rears it's head... ![]() Now back to our regularly scheduled program.
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Michigan HBT'ers, come check in at; Quote:
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#7 |
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Call me Deacon Booze
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Nice thread Revvy. I like how you put your wand right off of the spigot. I've learned something. Thanks
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play the bass, brew the beer What's tappening? :D |
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#8 | |||
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Post Hoc Ergo Propter Hoc
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Revvy's Blog, Of Patience and Bottle Conditioning.
Almost daily here on HBT we see a rash of"my beer is undercarbed," "is flat," or "my tastes funny" thread and 99% of the time reading the first paragraph of the thread you will see that the OP indicated that they opened the beer after a few days or 2 weeks expecting their beer to be ready.... If you don't understand the carb process, it is really simple. The yeast eat the sugar solution you feed them. They "fart" co2. The CO2 fills the headspace in the bottle (the one to one and a half inch dead space between the beer and the cap) CO2 keeps being generated,and it maxes out the headspace. So it has a couple choices...blow the top of the bottle (the cap) Blow up the bottle, or seek the path of least resistance and dive back into the beer, and get absorbed (carbonated) by the liquid. Since the cap is pretty tight (and ingenious in it's design) and most bottles don't have any flaws and can maintain the pressure, the gas more often than not, takes the third option and goes back into the liquid and is absorbed by it. This process is dependent on, a couple of factors...The amount of sugar (though it is possible to carb a beer with NO sugar, if you have patience), the original gravity/alcohol content of the beer) and more importantly, is the temp of the liquid. The warmer the yeast the more awake they are, and they more awake they are the more faster they will consume the sugar, and max out the headspace. It's funny that so many of our new brewers, trying to be helpful will start trouble shooting all manner of "issues," when the the only issue is that the beer needs more time, both to carb up and to reach it's prime. Many beers can be fizzy, but still taste like crap...because the beer is still very young, we call this "being green." Beermaking has a lot of similarities to food and cooking.... Ever notice that some foods, like spaghetti sauces, soups or chili's taste better as leftovers then they do when you take them first off the stove? The ingredients have to "marry" and co-mingle and some things mellow out with time. It's the same with beer....That is one of the things that bottle conditioning does...lets the flavors "Marry" because the new co2 that builds up, and lets some of the "green" flavors fade away... Carbonation isn't instantaneous to begin with, it takes a couple weeks for the Co2 to build up, and once the co2 has saturated the beer, EvilToj says it best... Quote:
Temperature also plays a role...The recommendation is to store/age your bottles in a dark place @ around 70 degrees F. For most simple ales, the rule of thumb is 3 weeks @ 70 deg. But I have had Stouts and Porters take 6 to 8 weeks before they are ready. Before that beers may have all manner of off tastes, including a green apple flavor, strong yeastiness (yeast bite) and they may not show any carbonation, OR they may gush when they open them (or one from the batch may be carbed, while another is flat, while a third may gush, but most of the time, they all will even out with time. After 3 weeks @ 70 is recommended (though most of us fail at this one-Me included) that you put your beer in the fridge for a full two weeks before drinking....this will help to make you beer crystal clear and tasty..... At least new brewer, let them chill in the fridge for 48 hours before you knock them back. Although many books refer to gushers as a sign of infection, DON'T PANIC; a gushing bottle anytime within the first 3-4 weeks of bottle conditioning is not uncommon, and not NECESSARILY an indication of infection....It is AFTER the period of bottle conditioning has occured, and especially when the rest of the bottled beer is carbed and conditioned fine, that a gusher is a cause of concern....and USULLY the infection is limited to only a single, or to very few bottles-(It could be, for example, that a bottle has somehow slipped through your sanitizing process- maybe it wasn't cleaned thoroughly if it was a recycled bottle.) Believe it or not, it is really hard to ruin/infect your beer, especially if it is your first batch, and you took even the most rudimentary sanitary precautions....It is actually more likely for an experienced brewer to get an infection- Perhaps they let something slide in their cleaning/sanitization process and something from their previous batch got nasty between brewing sessions, and infected their latest batch- It sometimes happens that small matter gets lodged in a hose connection and doesn't get cleaned out or zapped with the sanitizer....Or perhaps over many uses a fermenter or bottling bucket develops a scratch in it, which becomes a breeding ground for contamination.....but with brand new, cleaned and sanitized equipment...highly unlikely. (That's why it is a good idea NEVER to use any abrasive cleanser or cleaning tools like scrubbies, on your plastic gear. Nor is it a good idead to clean/sanitize your bottles or equipment in your fermenter or bottling bucket....I use a dedicated 5 gallon soysauce bucket for that purpose.) Just remember, in brewing, we're not making instant lemonade here, we're not mixing a bunch of flavoring with water and consuming it the same day. Homebrew is alive (even more than the highly processed, patsurized, and filtered, tasteless swill that passes for commercial beer- i.e. Bud, Miller, Coors.) what we're making is the result of the life cycle of living yeasts, that eat, breed, and process (read- Pee ) proteins and sugars into wonderful tasty alchohol....and since it is living, like us, it has it's own timetable and agenda....so Relax, Don't Worry, (and if this your first batch) Have a Micro Brew Later when you have a few batches in the pipeline we'll switch that to RDWHAHB! A good experiment, for any brewer to do, is to pull a beer out on the 7th day in the bottle and chill it for 2...then taste it...make notes on the tastes and the level of carb. Do it again on the 14th day, the 21st and the 28th...you'll really see the difference. Then leave a bottle stashed away for 6 months...chill that and taste it...and go back and read your notes... You'll learn a heck of a lot about beer doing that. Poindexter shows in this video exactly what happens to your beer over the 3 weeks....He shows carbonation from 5 days in the bottle on.... SO STEP AWAY FROM YOUR BOTTLES, the yeasties know what they're doing, so let them do their jobs!!! Since your beer's already in the bottles, that means your primary is free...so quit sampling your beer before it's ready (or you wan't have any to drink when they ACTUALLY reach their peak.) AND GET BREWING ANOTHER BATCH! Just remember, at the minimum; 3 weeks @ 70, 3 weeks @ 70,3 weeks @ 70! Lazy Llama says it best....better than me I think. [/img]And if after 3 weeks, if it is not carbed, or still taste funny...then wait a few more weeks. I know this seems difficult to do right now, the waiting thing. But as you brew and as you have a pipeline going, you will have different beers at different steps of the process; fermenting, in secondary if you are opting to use one, bottle conditioning, aging, and drinking. So you will never be without beer to drink. This quote from one of my friends sums it up.... Quote:
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Michigan HBT'ers, come check in at; Quote:
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#9 |
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LET'S GO RED WINGS!!
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i do similar to the dishwasher setup but since i also use the dishwasher to sanitize my bottles i just soak my caps in the starsan after spraying down the inside of the bottling bucket. i also use a wallpaper tray for sanitizing the racking equipment. when bottling i sit on a stepstool in front of the washer
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primary1 :UTOPIA BABY(still searching for it) secondary:middling bastard ipa kegged:simcoe blonde, crystal pale ale, yellow jacket golden ale, lemon shandy blonde DRINKIN DAWG BREWERY LET'S GO RED WINGS join michigan mashers here extraction calculator grains in pounds(G) X 36(average points per gallon of grains) / batch size in gallons(g) = maximum efficiency(ME) OG / ME = brewhouse efficiency |
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#10 |
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Donkeys smells like ass
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Also, for those who find this thread as they are saying... "I am bottling NOW and need to make a dip tube!"
A standard wine cork will fit perfectly into the spigot on the inside of the bucket. ![]() I took a wine cork and drilled a 3/8 hole through the longitudinal center. Then I took an old racking cane and cut the curved portion off. I filed a slight angle in one end of the racking can to a length that would reach the very bottom of my bottling bucket from the center of the spigot hole. Then I jammed the cane into the cork and the cork into the spigot bulkhead. Viola! A free dip tube, NO MORE TIPPING!!!
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2P-Twent-E Brewery build, Simple Brewery Build, Side-by-side Fermentation Chamber, Godisgoode yeast lab, Labels |
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