Probably Stuck Meads

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Bowow0708

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I have two meads that are about 3 months old one is a 5 gal the OG was at around 1.140 the second was a 1 gal and the OG was at 1.180. both have been re-pitched before and the problem is when i checked today they only read 1.080 for the 5 gals and 1.130 for the 1 gal. So i decided to rep-pitch, aerate lightly, transfer off the old yeast, and add more nutrient. can anyone tell me why it is so slow? I can understand the 1 gal batch but not the 5 gal one, it was taken from Schramm's book the sweet mead with D-47. the 1 gal one was a polish mead with KV-1116. the nutrient was DAP. Does anyone have some advice for the 5 gal batch?
 
That one gal batch sound familliar! I recently just went through the effort of trying to save a mead that started at about 1.2 and stopped at 1.12 or so, I'm on my phone so can't find you the links right now but I ended up splitting it, watering both halves down and pitching 1118 before it started up again.

For the 5 gal you could try making a starter, not sure how good d47 is at restarting just by pitching straight in.
 
I have two meads that are about 3 months old one is a 5 gal the OG was at around 1.140 the second was a 1 gal and the OG was at 1.180. both have been re-pitched before and the problem is when i checked today they only read 1.080 for the 5 gals and 1.130 for the 1 gal. So i decided to rep-pitch, aerate lightly, transfer off the old yeast, and add more nutrient. can anyone tell me why it is so slow? I can understand the 1 gal batch but not the 5 gal one, it was taken from Schramm's book the sweet mead with D-47. the 1 gal one was a polish mead with KV-1116. the nutrient was DAP. Does anyone have some advice for the 5 gal batch?
Start gravities at the higher end, are notorious for being harder to manage. They tend to need a more considered method/technique.

Just chucking extra yeast in there, or racking off and adding a different one with a higher tolerance is unlikely to work. Search for "restarting stuck ferment" for an idea of what might be the best next step. Also, you should check the pH, as low pH/high acidity can cause a stuck ferment. The lowest pH should be about 3.0, anything lower is likely to be an issue.

If the nutrient was just DAP, then that may also be a pointer. Honey is low in nutrient i.e. nitrogen based compounds, which is solved by DAP, but it also needs various micro-nutrients, usually supplied by the use of something like Fermaid K, Fermax, Tronozymol, etc etc. The example is, when working out the nutrient requirement, for something like 70/30, Fermaid K (or similar) and DAP. The Fermaid K type nutrient supplies the micro nutrients and some of the required DAP, but the extra DAP then augments.

Higher gravity musts often need SNA (staggered nutrient addition) methods used on them, to get the best out of the yeasts.

For the newer mead maker (whether with other fermenting experience or not) the Gotmead NewBee guide is where I point people as it seems to be an excellent guide.

{edit}p.s. I notice you're in Manila, so could ambient temperatures also be an issue, causing the yeast to be stressed ? I understand the whether gets hot there, and with yeasts like D47, it's entirely possible that you'd end up making paint thinner.......{/edit}
 
Start gravities at the higher end, are notorious for being harder to manage. They tend to need a more considered method/technique.

Just chucking extra yeast in there, or racking off and adding a different one with a higher tolerance is unlikely to work. Search for "restarting stuck ferment" for an idea of what might be the best next step. Also, you should check the pH, as low pH/high acidity can cause a stuck ferment. The lowest pH should be about 3.0, anything lower is likely to be an issue.

If the nutrient was just DAP, then that may also be a pointer. Honey is low in nutrient i.e. nitrogen based compounds, which is solved by DAP, but it also needs various micro-nutrients, usually supplied by the use of something like Fermaid K, Fermax, Tronozymol, etc etc. The example is, when working out the nutrient requirement, for something like 70/30, Fermaid K (or similar) and DAP. The Fermaid K type nutrient supplies the micro nutrients and some of the required DAP, but the extra DAP then augments.

Higher gravity musts often need SNA (staggered nutrient addition) methods used on them, to get the best out of the yeasts.

For the newer mead maker (whether with other fermenting experience or not) the Gotmead NewBee guide is where I point people as it seems to be an excellent guide.

{edit}p.s. I notice you're in Manila, so could ambient temperatures also be an issue, causing the yeast to be stressed ? I understand the whether gets hot there, and with yeasts like D47, it's entirely possible that you'd end up making paint thinner.......{/edit}

Right now they are starting up again so i don't think that it is a pH problem and I cant check the pH since i dont have any strips or a meter. And I'll buy some fermaid k the next time i order from states. also the temp is pretty good actually since they are kept in the spare bathroom and are in tubs of water to keep the temp down it probably got to 75 at highest but i doubt that the mead was that high and lowest at around 65 my fermemeter wont give me readings, it averages around 70.

The 1 gal i expected it to take a while but i didn't think the yeast would quit that soon. The 5 gal batch i thought would be a bit easier and thanks for the advice!
 
That one gal batch sound familliar! I recently just went through the effort of trying to save a mead that started at about 1.2 and stopped at 1.12 or so, I'm on my phone so can't find you the links right now but I ended up splitting it, watering both halves down and pitching 1118 before it started up again.

For the 5 gal you could try making a starter, not sure how good d47 is at restarting just by pitching straight in.

The 1 gal is starting up again i think that it should be fine now since it is now at a more manageable gravity. At least mine was able to get about 50 points down it is probably gonna be a cordial or something. Something to drink in itty bitty teeny tiny half ounce glasses. And the meads when I racked them off they were soooo floral and smelled beautiful, fruits and honey is what i can get from them aroma wise and they are going to be incredible I can tell.

ps I saw your post on that mead and good job saving it but i want a full strength polish mead!
 
I was at our local mini winery/brewery last night. He knows I am a home brewer and we talk brewing quite a bit when he's not busy. He brought me out a "hush hush" off the books sample of a "repaired" failed mead.

It had been a year old with a high SG. It stalled at around 5% abv and he just couldn't get it going again. Was a 3 gal batch. He bought 3 gal of cheap vodka, charcoal filtered it and miixed it 50-50. It tasted fantastic. He can't sell it cause he doesn't have a hard liquor license, but as he says makes great gifts. Just thought it was a viable option to post here for a batch that just won't ferment out.
 
I was at our local mini winery/brewery last night. He knows I am a home brewer and we talk brewing quite a bit when he's not busy. He brought me out a "hush hush" off the books sample of a "repaired" failed mead.

It had been a year old with a high SG. It stalled at around 5% abv and he just couldn't get it going again. Was a 3 gal batch. He bought 3 gal of cheap vodka, charcoal filtered it and miixed it 50-50. It tasted fantastic. He can't sell it cause he doesn't have a hard liquor license, but as he says makes great gifts. Just thought it was a viable option to post here for a batch that just won't ferment out.
Brilliant. Then it's not just me that takes that route :) hell, once you've fortified it to a reasonable level, to bring the gravity down, you can even just put it away in bulk or bottle and the "improve through ageing" trick still seems to work.....
 
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