Ken Schramm's The Compleat Meadmaker is the bible of mead making. There is a newer book by Steve Piatz ( just out this summer, I think) but I have not yet had a chance to read it.
As to recipes, mead ain't beer. Once you have a good grasp of the principles you really don't need "recipes". Fundamentally, you dilute 2 -3 lbs of honey in a gallon of good , cool water. You add nutrients (yeast has too few to sustain the yeast) and you use your choice of wine , champagne, ale or lager yeast. The more honey you add the more pronounced the varietal of honey flavor there will be but the more honey you use the greater will be the ABV. The greater the ABV the longer you will need to age the mead. There is always a balance between the ABV, the acidity (Titratable Acidity or TA) and the sweetness. Most (many? some?) mazers ferment dry (SG 1.000 or lower) and back sweeten. Some use the alcohol to kill the yeast before they have finished chomping down on the available sugar.
You can add fruit or spices (including hops (boiled in water)) or flowers. Some cultures that make mead dilute the honey proportionally 1:3 or 1:4. etc. Most of the folk I know use an hydrometer and aim for a gravity rather than a dilution ratio - Me? I aim for about 1.090 which is just over 2 lbs of honey. But I have friends who aim for a starting gravity of 1.120. That said, I just started some cyser Monday and the starting gravity was 1.132 (a potential ABV of about 17 percent).
Last point - brewers boil their stuff, mazers avoid heat. You sanitize with K-meta, not heat. And the avoidance of heat applies to the fermentation too - cool and slow is good for aroma and flavor (so champagne yeast is not a really great choice - too powerful - blows off the aromatics and flavor molecules of varietal honeys)
