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Old 03-01-2013, 05:49 AM   #151
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I realize everyone most likely already spent their allowance on grain but I will bring it up anyway.....I would really like to try and get something together on kegs if people are interested. The 3 I currently have just are not cutting it. Maybe I will call Midwest and see if they are planning in running any promotions in the near future for their kegs. I got my last round from them for 25 per keg plus shipping.

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Old 03-01-2013, 02:51 PM   #152
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I have been following this thread and would love to get some kegs in the $30-$40 range. Also, how often do you all do group buys? Finally, are there ever any in Omaha? Thanks for the info and let me know what people can get on keg deals too.

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Old 03-01-2013, 04:40 PM   #153
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I have been following this thread and would love to get some kegs in the $30-$40 range. Also, how often do you all do group buys? Finally, are there ever any in Omaha? Thanks for the info and let me know what people can get on keg deals too.
We had a number of Omaha guys in on this group buy. I think it happens a couple times a year.
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Old 03-01-2013, 05:17 PM   #154
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I realize everyone most likely already spent their allowance on grain but I will bring it up anyway.....I would really like to try and get something together on kegs if people are interested. The 3 I currently have just are not cutting it. Maybe I will call Midwest and see if they are planning in running any promotions in the near future for their kegs. I got my last round from them for 25 per keg plus shipping.
Feel free to do some homework. I emailed McEver and got some hemming and hawing. Here's what I got:

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Shipping 20 tanks to your location will cost $130. Let me know what you think and have a great day! We have A grade ball locks that start out at $40 and we are waiting to see if we will have B grade ball locks which would start out at $32.99. We also have pin locks in stock for $28.99 or pin locks with a manual release valve for $32. We can work a little on the pricing if your doing 20 and take off about $1 off each tank price.
So the "A Grade" tanks would come out to $45.50 shipped for 20 tank order. I asked some more questions, but as has been my experience in the past, if you reply to the same email more than about twice, they stop replying back for some reason.

What frustrates me is that I got two tanks for $91 shipped off McEver in the past. These prices should be cheaper at 20 tanks. Maybe we need to do 30 tanks, IDK. I know they double-stack kegs on pallets, but how many will fit on a pallet? Most pallets are 40x48. Kegs are what, 8" diameter? that's 5x6, so 30 per layer. I'll try a new email today.
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Open log Fermenting and gas-can secondary?? I am planning my next brew right now!!
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Old 03-01-2013, 06:06 PM   #155
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I called a few places, best I got was we could help a little on shipping. Well at $50-55 per keg, I would rather go to the lhbs. I think they charge about $65 for their kegs. You would think places would be willing to help out a little on a larger order like that.

I sent a couple emails out as well, we will see if it goes anywhere.

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Old 03-01-2013, 06:33 PM   #156
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I mean, I *guess* 44.50 each isn't bad.

We can already get $50/keg prices from places like this, no waiting or planning needed: http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Stee...ref=pd_sbs_k_3 - even this Refurbished 4-Pack goes for less than $60/keg before shipping - http://www.beveragefactory.com/draft...E5-BL-PV.shtml - basically, as the customer, If I go through the effort to buy as part of a group, I'm expecting the group will receive a stellar discount, not just a buck or two.

Used kegs are getting to be expensive enough that I'm considering buying some of these instead - http://www.beveragefactory.com/draft..._lock_keg.html - if you buy a 2-Pack or 4-Pack, they drop the price accordingly. The 4 pack goes for 324.99 right now for brand new kegs... only $81.24 each before shipping...

Bah... I should stop being a grouch today... it's just inflation... should've picked more up when I had the chance to do it cheaply. At least I got the ones I did.

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Old 03-04-2013, 04:53 PM   #157
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McEver says they're out of ball-locks right now but mentioned "single handle" ball-locks. As usual, I replied and didn't get a response. I'll send ANOTHER new email today about the single handle ones (might be like the ones that have been for sale on other sites, usually for $30 or cheaper). I could care less how many handles they have, if any, at this point. I just need it to hold pressure. I have 3 tanks with handles already, but I need more storage ability.

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Open log Fermenting and gas-can secondary?? I am planning my next brew right now!!
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Old 03-04-2013, 07:59 PM   #158
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I don't care as long as the dimensions are similar and the parts are compatible. If it means I would need to buy new parts then I would most likely be out but thanks for checking and keep us posted!

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Old 03-06-2013, 12:39 AM   #159
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Moving back to that saving yeast conversation...

I tried that today and I got what looks to be almost all trub in my jars. Maybe I picked a bad batch, or did something a little wrong.

For starters, I used a batch of lager yeast that I re-pitched on already. I dump everything from the kettle right into my fermenter. I don't whirlpool, and don't use anything to seperate my hop pellets.

I followed the insructions on the site Tre listed, immediately after siphoning, I swirled the cake/trub around, and then poured it into 3 of the smaller mason jars. This was roughly half of the trub in the bucket, it was very thick and greenish brown. It doesn't appear to be seperating much at all after a couple hours in the refrigerator.

I'm wondering where I went wrong here. Did I siphon too much liquid out of my fermenter to get seperation? I tend to be pretty efficient at this, I would say I never leave more than about 2-3 ounces of beer behind. Or, did I get such a thick trub because I don't whirlpool and leave behind the gunk in the kettle? Or is it simply because I had 2 batches worth of trub in the fermenter? Maybe a combo of all these reasons, lol.

I was hoping someone with experience using this method could give me a little insight. Tre?

A noteworthy detail might be that my original pitch was 2 packages of rehydrated Saflager 34/70 into 1.057 Marzen. After a couple weeks and fermentation died, I pitched a Dopplebock of 1.080 directly in after siphoning out the Marzen.

Should I even keep the jars of sludge?

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Old 03-06-2013, 04:21 PM   #160
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There is yeast in there. You probably DO have a lot of trub/hop gunk because of the aforementioned "dumping straight into fermenter" method, but that doesn't mean you don't have healthy yeast, too. Settling into layers takes quite some time for thick trub-y yeast cakes. I have some that haven't really separated much, either, but you can tell the white/off-white color indicates yeast, green specks are hops and brown or darker specks are grain trub.

The presence of trub has very little, if any, effect on the next beer. The hops have served their purpose and have nothing really left to contribute, so I doubt you'll notice them in the next beer. The trub has nutrients and such that the yeast will not mind.

The key here is knowing that you have a lot of non-yeast. That means you need to use a tool like Mr. Malty and slide the non-yeast % to a high number. It will then tell you (in the repitch from slurry tab) how much of the thick slurry (not the beer-colored liquid) you need for a new batch of beer. I'd pitch slightly more than it recommends though because you came from a big beer where the higher ABV likely killed some yeast.

At any rate if you oxygenate properly and pitch enough of the harvested yeast, you'll be fine, and really, I've yet to have any real issues with off flavors even when I think I've underpitched, under oxygenated, etc. I think getting close or slightly over is the key, you just don't want to severely under/over pitch.

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Open log Fermenting and gas-can secondary?? I am planning my next brew right now!!
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