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Old 03-04-2013, 01:39 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by homebrewdude76 View Post
I have a mig welder. Thought I needed a TIG for this type of work.
You can weld SS with MIG. You would need to make sure you use SS wire. My shop has a nice fancy new Lincoln welder that has a pulse mode which is very helpful in keeping the temperature of the weld in check.

Others on the forum would be better versed in the reasons for using TIG over MIG though.


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Old 03-04-2013, 02:14 AM   #12
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maby here.... Iv done business with this guy. quick shipping and good customer support.
http://www.hillbillystills.com/Heating_Element_plate_p/hecp.htm



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Old 03-04-2013, 03:31 AM   #13
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You would need SS wire and tri mix gas helium/argon/co2. Tig is much more controlled. If you are going to use mig only do 1/4 of the weld at a time allowing it to cool between welds. Otherwise you may warp the fitting. You also may want to back purge the tank. When your done you need to treat the welds with acid bath to make the corrosion resistance work again.

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Old 03-04-2013, 08:31 PM   #14
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I soldered 2" TriClamp into my keggle, I used a custom machined dimple tool though (so that probably doesn't help you. Ill try to get some pics.

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My experience with soldering SS was it cracks easily. I had a 1/2" fitting in my keggle and it kept cracking any time i wasn't super careful with it. I went and welded on my fittings with MIG and now i wish i just drilled a 1 1/8" hole and stabbed the heater in with the stock o ring and a SS locknut on the inside.
I've seen this reported occasionally on the soldering thread, to be honest I'm not sure what happens to these people. Reading reports like this had me spooked so I did some test solders and beat them with a hammer. I was very impressed with how strong they were (they can be broken free with pretty good direct blows, but I'm not at all worried about them in service). YMMV though.

If you can get a nice clean weld done, its defiantly better. For me the soldering was good enough for now.
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Old 03-04-2013, 09:26 PM   #15
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If you have the kettle in a stand where it wont be moved you should be ok. I don't have a stand so it gets dragged in and out of storage and into my yard or garage.

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Old 03-04-2013, 10:49 PM   #16
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I am guessing I can just measure what people use for a 1" and scale it up?

I can easily have something custom machined.


[QUOTE=AllanMar;4970247]I soldered 2" TriClamp into my keggle, I used a custom machined dimple tool though (so that probably doesn't help you. Ill try to get some pics.

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Old 03-04-2013, 11:26 PM   #17
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2" TC ferrule is 2" O.D. I made the mistake of having the tool machined to 2" OD. I also had to use a punch which a greater difference then I used for the 1" ferrules (1.734"), as that's all I had (the next size up was too close to 2"). Have to pull through more material and the exact 2" diameter tool left me with too small a hole. As I wanted to dimple out, I couldn't pull the fitting through, which meant lots of time with a die grinder/hammer to get them to fit in.

EDIT: the 1" OD tool for the 1" ferrules worked quite well (took a little grinding but allowed a tight fit), i suspect it was using the smaller punch that caused the issues.

I'd recommend making your tool slightly larger, IMHO its not hard to use a hammer (a cold chisel can seal any gaps) to bang the hole slightly smaller. If I did it all over again I would make it slightly larger then 2" have a gap and then get progressively bigger so you have options.



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Old 03-05-2013, 02:00 AM   #18
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Don't bother with MIG, Unless you are an absolute pro welding stainless It won't turn out very nice....I've all but ruined a keggle with MIG using stainless wire and trigas..Just a friendly word of warning. Been there done that. FAIL....
I now have to remove a couple 1/2 couplings from a Keggle. I'm hoping I can replace one of them with another 1/2 but one of them is going to have to be 1" because of bad weld.

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Old 03-06-2013, 03:12 AM   #19
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What is the best method to actual drill/punch the hole this size?

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Old 03-06-2013, 04:54 AM   #20
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For a two inch hole, I used a half inch Greenlee conduit punch to make a hole big enough for the 1 1/2" conduit punch. The resulting hole needed to be enlarged just slightly to get the ferrule through. Then it got fixtured and TIG'd in place.

I will admit that I am lucky to have that punch set available to me. It's also got the hydraulic puller which makes life so much easier!



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