Did I just make an $11 mistake?

I am gearing up to build the same rig outlined in this thread:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/110v-recirculating-ebiab-2-5-gallon-batches-341219/

The heating element I bought is Camco 02483, 120V 1650W, HWD:
http://www.amzn.com/B000K7RJQQ

It only occurred to me afterwards that a HWD element may not have been the best choice.

I googled and searched HBT as well, but ultimately found conflicting information on my question. The basic question is will a HWD element scorch the wort?

Here are my thoughts, was hoping for some reassurance, or correction. The general consensus is that a HWD element is OK as long as there is some movement and it isn't a tight space. It seems those with bad experiences are using the HWD elements inside a RIMS tube, or there was some other issue that lead to scorching. Since I am not really using a confined RIMS tube and basically circulating the entire boil volume, I don't think this will be an issue.

With the rig noted above, I will be recirculating throughout the entire mash, then putting the element on manual mode for the boil. I think I am ok, but hoping someone can chime in.

I concur with your research, flow-rate and volume are critical. I think you'll be fine.

Can you take it back? I would try to exchange it for the ULWD unit if possible. I use that in my kettle and haven't had any issues.

I bought it on Amazon, so it would probably be just as much a pain to return as it would be to just buy another one. I think I will give it a try and see if there are any problems. Its only $11 but still.

Thanks!

You can use it for now but avoid really big beers. I had one that worked fine until I did a big (1.110+) beer. I think the super-thick wort was too much for it. It scorched some of the wort but the biggest problem was it actually overheated and caused the element to break up into pieces. The beer actually came out okay since the scorching was minimal and all the pieces were metallic and sank to the bottom. The ULWD versions shouldn't have that problem.

I bought some 1650 watt 120V low watt density elements here:
http://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Water-Heater-9000253-Element/dp/B000LNICCO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1347938635&sr=8-1&keywords=1650+w+heater+element
These are just about as cheap as the high density ones. It's kind of tough to find ULWD for 120V. Per the size these are close, except they aren't stainless like most ULWD ones.
I bought high density ones for my HLT, since it's just water. They are WAY smaller than the other ones.

Well, I have used HWD elements for years and still use them, and until recently never believed there could be an issue w/ scorching...long story short I depowered for about a half hour during a boil to run some errands, trub settled and burned like hell to the elements and I threw out 15 gallons. HWD might work fine for a lifetime, but you may get stung during an unusual circumstance as have I, and others...your money, time, beer, and decision.

I still use the same HWD elements but I am stubborn, and think I know their limitations...good luck. Kind of like asking, "Do I need airbags in my car", well not really, but........

Ha yea wilser I actually came across your initial thread when you posted about that, which is why I mentioned in the OP about "some other issue"

Why only a 1650w and not a 2000W?

I wasn't sure if the house I am renting has GFCI 20A circuits. There is one GFCI outlet in the kitchen, but it doesn't have a sideways slot so I'm not sure if its 20A. As far as I understand, current building code requires 2x 20A circuits in the kitchen, so I dunno. That said, according to the build I am copying, the 1650W should be sufficient; it will only be 2.5G batches.

OK, just my gut tells me that 2000w would be a fair deal faster than 1650w even for 2.5 gal batches IF you have the ability to turn it down once you reach boil IF needed???

Lots of 20 amp outlets do not have the sideways slot...could check the breaker and wire size to the outlet easy enough.

I checked the breaker panel - every damn circuit in the house is using a 20A breaker, I'm not sure about the outlets and since I'm renting I wasn't about to go installing new ones. My landlady is an old Italian woman with whom I do not wish to mess.

Point taken though. If it becomes a problem or takes too long - I can always upgrade.

EvilDeadAsh said:

I checked the breaker panel - every damn circuit in the house is using a 20A breaker, I'm not sure about the outlets and since I'm renting I wasn't about to go installing new ones. My landlady is an old Italian woman with whom I do not wish to mess.

Point taken though. If it becomes a problem or takes too long - I can always upgrade.

Click to expand...

I used 1650 instead of 2000 for headroom - pump(s), controller, someone using the same circuit for something I was unaware of. For example, I found out my 20 amp bathroom circuit also goes to the closet where the modem and router is located! As long as it's sized right for your application, it's good.