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Old 12-06-2011, 01:40 AM   #21
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Would this diagram help you?

(As always - click on the image to see a full scale diagram that is printable on Tabloid paper 11" x 17")
Thanks P-J, I was using yours from Tiber_brew's build. Honestly, both are working for me. I'm trying to keep the switches and LEDs to a minimum with this build. For instance, I don't want the function of being able to turn the element on and by-pass the BCS controller (if my wife brews, I can already hear the element popping in my mind). I'll also be programming BCS such that it won't fire both elements at the same time, but if it becomes an issue, I can always replace the ones I bought with smaller ones so the 50a circuit can handle it easily.

The question from 52pickup brings up one I had, do I need to go with 25a or 30a breakers for the elements? I just checked my wall power, turns out TX may be kicking out a little extra voltage, I was showing 130v (260v?) on my meter (steady). I'll double check at the panel later on my a/c circuit.
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Old 12-06-2011, 01:47 AM   #22
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Ok... a 240v 5500w element averages 23a.

I don't know about your neck of the woods, but at my house my "240" line averages closer to 220 actual volts. So, 5500w/220v= 25a = popping breakers everytime you blink.
It does not work that way.
A 240V 5500W element on 220V will draw less than 22A.

Ohms Law.!!!!
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Old 12-06-2011, 01:58 AM   #23
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The advertised wattage is the optimal wattage at the desired 240v draw based on the resistance of the element. The element is actually stamped with 5500w at 240v, 4000w at 208v, so...

The irony is, the breakers are the same price whether I choose 25a or 30a. Its really a question of how close to cut it. I'm leaning to the 30a but feel more comfortable with the idea of the 25a, but I say that knowing I also have the 50a GFI on the back end as well. I'll likely go 25a.

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Old 12-06-2011, 02:10 AM   #24
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Touche'

Too many beers for me - got my ohms, watts and such all discombobulated.

However, if the OP says he is showing closer to 260v - that would put him at alomst 25a - no?

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Old 12-06-2011, 02:12 AM   #25
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Touche'

Too many beers for me - got my ohms, watts and such all discombobulated.

However, if the OP says he is showing closer to 260v - that would put him at alomst 25a - no?
That's what has me still pondering tonight. I'll check the panel tomorrow. I still have time, nothing ordered yet.
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Old 12-06-2011, 02:21 AM   #26
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If you are receiving 260V on your lines, you NEED to call your power company. That is a real problem with THEM.! Be sure to measure your voltage between the 240V posts in the breaker box.

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Old 12-06-2011, 02:26 AM   #27
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If you are receiving 260V on your lines, you NEED to call your power company. That is a real problem with THEM.! Be sure to measure your voltage between the 240V posts in the breaker box.
That's where I'll head tomorrow. Definitely wouldn't want to be out there today, just a bit of rain in the past 24 hours.
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Old 12-06-2011, 02:31 AM   #28
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Yes. Do not do that in the wet and also in the dark. Not worth the risk.

Please let us know what you measure. (I'm interested.)

P-J

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Old 12-06-2011, 05:44 PM   #29
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The irony is, the breakers are the same price whether I choose 25a or 30a. Its really a question of how close to cut it. I'm leaning to the 30a but feel more comfortable with the idea of the 25a, but I say that knowing I also have the 50a GFI on the back end as well. I'll likely go 25a.
choose whatever size breaker that your wiring can support. if your wire size can only support 25A before overheating past a point where you are comfortable, then that is the breaker you use. if your wire can handle 30A, use that breaker. it has nothing to do with any particular device you are connecting to it. a breaker is meant to protect the wiring from melting in the event you draw too much current. underprovisioning is a waste of money (well maybe not if they are the same price, but still...), and overprovisioning subverts the entire function of having circuit protection.
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Old 12-06-2011, 07:38 PM   #30
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choose whatever size breaker that your wiring can support. if your wire size can only support 25A before overheating past a point where you are comfortable, then that is the breaker you use. if your wire can handle 30A, use that breaker. it has nothing to do with any particular device you are connecting to it. a breaker is meant to protect the wiring from melting in the event you draw too much current. underprovisioning is a waste of money (well maybe not if they are the same price, but still...), and overprovisioning subverts the entire function of having circuit protection.
At the moment nothing has been bought, but now that you bring up wire. I'm getting mixed information, and not sure how I want to procede. I plan to use 8awg stranded between the breaker and the spa panel, 30ft, outside in conduit, or at least that was the plan. If you research the wire, manufacturers and retailers all vary.
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