Electric Brewing Supply 30A BCS Giveaway!


Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > All Grain Apartment Brewing: Will a 1500W/120V element boil 6 gallons?
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 01-07-2013, 10:29 PM   #11
tektonjp
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: ohmihachiman, Japan
Posts: 691
Liked 63 Times on 43 Posts
Likes Given: 55

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by lemy View Post
So I am working on putting a 1500 watt element into my keggle HLT. I only want to get 10-12 gallons of water up to mash temps (170F) I plan to plug my temp controller into a timer, so I don't care about how long it takes, but my question is, will a 1500 watt element get 10-12 gallons up to mash temps?

I have a keggle, I do plan to insulate the outside, and use a lid.


I'm only trying to save on propane costs and I do not want to go to the expense of buying 20 feet of 10 gauge wire, a 240 circuit breaker, connectors and the hassle of installation, not to mention, I would like to remain somewhat mobile if I need to, so 1500 watt is the only reasonable size.
10 gallons 45F to 170F with 1500 watts = 128 minutes

There's a spreadsheet floating around somewhere here with the formulas.
__________________

"Beer, well respected and rightly consumed, can be a gift of God. It is one of his mysteries, which it was his delight to conceal and the glory of kings to search out."

The Search for God and Guinness by Stephen Mansfield

tektonjp is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-08-2013, 12:20 AM   #12
lemy
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: West Richland, Washington
Posts: 146
Liked 6 Times on 6 Posts
Likes Given: 12

Default counts as heat loss

Quote:
Originally Posted by tektonjp View Post
10 gallons 45F to 170F with 1500 watts = 128 minutes

There's a spreadsheet floating around somewhere here with the formulas.

Thanks for the response, but does the equation count for heat loss ? I understand 128 minutes in the perfect world where there is no heat loss, but in a 50 degree garage with my feeble attempt at insulation...

Just looking to see if anyone has experience with it.
__________________

-Lemy

www.reedbrewing.com

lemy is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-08-2013, 12:41 AM   #13
ryane
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Washington
Posts: 792
Liked 5 Times on 5 Posts

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMGfan View Post
Hey folks,
The apartment does not have GFCI protection on the outlets, so I'll be relying on plug in GFCI adapters like this: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/POW...5&cm_vc=HPPVZ3 If there's one available for 220 (I haven't seen one yet) then that may become an option, but for now I'm really only exploring the 120v option.

Thanks guys
They do sell 240V gfci cords, links have been posted here before, just dont remember where, maybe someone else can??

if you got one of those you could get some long SO cord and run a line from your drier or stove outlet and use that to power a 4500 or 5500 element, which will make sure you cane boil/mash in a reasonable amount of time
ryane is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-08-2013, 02:29 AM   #14
tektonjp
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: ohmihachiman, Japan
Posts: 691
Liked 63 Times on 43 Posts
Likes Given: 55

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by lemy View Post
Thanks for the response, but does the equation count for heat loss ? I understand 128 minutes in the perfect world where there is no heat loss, but in a 50 degree garage with my feeble attempt at insulation...

Just looking to see if anyone has experience with it.
Sorry, that's all I know. You said you didn't care how long it takes. Well, it will take over 2 hours, best case senario.If you insulate the HLT and put a lid on it, then it should be pretty darn close. You should you didn't care how long it takes. Well, it will take over 2 hours, best case scenario.
__________________

"Beer, well respected and rightly consumed, can be a gift of God. It is one of his mysteries, which it was his delight to conceal and the glory of kings to search out."

The Search for God and Guinness by Stephen Mansfield

tektonjp is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-08-2013, 03:25 AM   #15
lemy
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: West Richland, Washington
Posts: 146
Liked 6 Times on 6 Posts
Likes Given: 12

Default worry

Quote:
Originally Posted by tektonjp View Post
Sorry, that's all I know. You said you didn't care how long it takes. Well, it will take over 2 hours, best case senario.If you insulate the HLT and put a lid on it, then it should be pretty darn close. You should you didn't care how long it takes. Well, it will take over 2 hours, best case scenario.
2 hours is fine, my only concern is that, due to heat loss, 10-12 gallons would never actually get to 170F.
__________________

-Lemy

www.reedbrewing.com

lemy is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-09-2013, 11:51 PM   #16
tektonjp
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: ohmihachiman, Japan
Posts: 691
Liked 63 Times on 43 Posts
Likes Given: 55

Default

Throw a heat stick in an igloo.

__________________

"Beer, well respected and rightly consumed, can be a gift of God. It is one of his mysteries, which it was his delight to conceal and the glory of kings to search out."

The Search for God and Guinness by Stephen Mansfield

tektonjp is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-28-2013, 06:45 PM   #17
Cybershadow
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Windsor, PA
Posts: 182
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

Do you have a dryer? That uses probably a 30 amp circuit. Replace breaker with 30amp gfci and build yourself a 220v heatstick 4500-5000 watts with a replacment dryer cord. that is exactly what i did.

__________________
Cybershadow is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-02-2013, 04:20 AM   #18
KegWrangler
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Silverdale, WA
Posts: 129
Liked 34 Times on 25 Posts
Likes Given: 35

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tektonjp View Post
Throw a heat stick in an igloo.
+1 on the igloo setup.

I tried a 1500W in a 7.5 gallon SS pot and it never gets to a boil. I can get it there with help from the stove top but it loses so much heat that if I turn the range off the boil stops.
__________________
KegWrangler is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-02-2013, 11:18 AM   #19
brewmastercontrols
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 123
Liked 11 Times on 9 Posts

Default

Quote:
There's a spreadsheet floating around somewhere here with the formulas.
We have a page on our website that allows you to calculate various things related to electric brewing.

Electric Brewing Calculator

It is basically an online version of the spreadsheet referenced above.
__________________
brewmastercontrols is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-02-2013, 08:32 PM   #20
N3Bruce
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Reisterstown, Maryland
Posts: 16
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts
Likes Given: 4

Default

I have been using a Butterball Turkey Fryer, which uses a 1650 watt direct immersion element. Getting to a boil with a full pot of 6 gallons of water was marginal at best, as you near boiling, the heat loss from evaporation and radiation through the uninsulated tub was substantial. I decided that the sleek stainless steel look of the turkey fryer had to take a back seat to functionality. I had a big roll of Mylar faced foam insulation leftover from building my house. I wrapped the fryer and lid with this, and with the lid closed, I could reach a boil with relatively little heat loss, but it still took what seemed like forever.

Next step was to insulate the cavity between the tub and the housing. Since the heating element and all electrical wiring were detachable as a unit for cleaning, I could just stuff fiberglass into the space inside the cavity. Back of the envelope calculations for boiling times were reasonable, about an hour to Mash Temp, and another hour to boil. Once boiling, it would boil over if the lid was completely closed, and peter out if fully opened, so I left my stirring spoon across the top to keep the lid open an inch or so, which allows a gentle rolling boil. The basket also come in handy to keep the grain bag off the heating element.

I did an all-grain Porter with the setup, it just doesn't quite have the muscle to heat the Strike water as rapidly as I would have liked, but I managed to make some pretty good beer, despite its limitations. I have also done a couple of extract/partial mash brews with it.

__________________
N3Bruce is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply



Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
120v/3000w Heating Element TravelingBrewer22 Electric Brewing 10 08-19-2011 02:56 AM
looking for low density screw-on 240V, 1500W electric water heater element loserbrewer Electric Brewing 2 06-28-2011 08:22 PM
3 Way Switch, 1500W element help TimWeber Electric Brewing 4 03-31-2011 11:04 PM
Best Low Density 120V Element? slickfish Electric Brewing 2 03-14-2011 01:05 PM
120v on 220v element? hatrickwah Electric Brewing 34 03-07-2011 08:14 PM