Brewing tomorrow, quick question

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Apt23Brewery

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I've never just poured my wort into the primary fermentor. I've read that people do this, mainly for getting oxygen into the wort, but I'm concerned about the amount of trub that might get through the strainer. Does anyone have any special methods for moving wort from brew kettle to primary fermentor?

Thanks in advance for your help!
 
Does anyone have any special methods for moving wort from brew kettle to primary fermentor?

People who are concerned about it whirlpool the kettle to form a cone of material in the middle of the kettle and than siphon from the side.

Others don't bother and dump everything from Kettle to fermenter through a colander or screen that is fine enough to catch the hops and let everything else through.

Those that use a ball valve have some sort of screen of false bottom to keep the hops out.

Bottom line, don't worry about the trub. It's not going to hurt anything if it makes it into your fermenter.
 
I use pellet hops and don't even worry too much about them or the trub getting into the fermenter. Month long primary gives me clear beer with no hassles. Now, for IPA I do use a hop-sock.
 
This topic is so so very debated. If you want shiney clear wort into the fermentor i think it was Biermuncher that came up with a great method using a paint straining bag around the wort chiller. I've used that a few times, just dumped everything in a few times, sort of filtered a few times, not a lot of difference i can tell.

I've tried to make everything in my brew day as simple/easy as possible so no i just whirlpool and siphon from the side, not worrying at all about trub getting in.
 
If clarity is your only concern think of it this way: if the cold break is going to drop to the bottom of the kettle, it's going to drop to the bottom of the fermenter, especially if you cold condition it.

Some people voice concerns of the cold break contributing to off flavors though I personally disagree with that.

Other people choose to leave cold break behind to maximize the volume of wort into the fermenter, this I can see if you have a relatively high amount.

The simplest way to minimize cold break into fermenter IMO is to install a ball valve on your kettle and whirpool during chilling.
 
Since I started using the nylon hop bags, the hop sludge has stayed out of my primaries. I used the auto siphon to transfer my last brewing to primary, and that made things ultra-easy. Plus, I was able to leave the dregs in the bottom of the brew pot.

With a 3-4 week primary, though, chances are all hop particles will be compacted into the trub.

I can see how more trub could be an issue if you're looking to wash your yeast (something I started doing recently). Even then, it's not difficult to separate out the trub to get a good washing...
 
I used a large sanitized paint straining bag that fit around the rim of the kettle for my last brew. When the boil was over, I just pulled it out & it did great containing all the hop sludge. I'm dry hopping that beer right now & I can tell from looking at it that it's going to be my clearest brew to date. Plus it's reusable.

Sent from my iPhone using HB Talk
 
Hmmm I've never thought about using the paint straining bag like that. I stopped using the mesh hop bags for fear of lessened utilization, but using the bag like that you wouldn't lose anything and it would contain 'em all. No funky flavors come from boiling the bag?
 
I used a large sanitized paint straining bag that fit around the rim of the kettle for my last brew. When the boil was over, I just pulled it out & it did great containing all the hop sludge. I'm dry hopping that beer right now & I can tell from looking at it that it's going to be my clearest brew to date. Plus it's reusable.

Sent from my iPhone using HB Talk

exactly how i do it. i got a large mesh bag from my lhbs (about $3). i stretch it over the top of my bucket, open the valve, and let it drain
 
...I stopped using the mesh hop bags for fear of lessened utilization...

So out of completely irrational fear you stopped doing something that works really well... :cross:

The hop bag works great for every batch I've done so far (using pellet hops)... Of course, I'm using, at most, 2 ounces of pellets. So if you're going with more, you could have different results.

With the brew I'm making tomorrow, I'll be using three hop bags. That's only so that I can put each hop addition in it's own bag, making it easier to add the hops. That's the only shortcoming of the hop bag, you need to open it up again to add more. That is, unless you just get a couple and put each hop addition in it's own.
 
JUST DUMP IT! (If you are doing dark beer it won't hurt anything. Ig you are doing a light beer or really hoppy one it might be worth taking a little more time to siphon it out.
(In my eyes all that junk does is add taste, you can always filter later)
 
So out of completely irrational fear you stopped doing something that works really well... :cross:QUOTE]

They have done experiments that prove that your utilization is lower in a bag than it is free floating in the wort. You can, of course, just add more hops to make up for it.
 
So out of completely irrational fear you stopped doing something that works really well... :cross:QUOTE]

They have done experiments that prove that your utilization is lower in a bag than it is free floating in the wort. You can, of course, just add more hops to make up for it.

I would really like to read about these experiments, do you have a link?
 
For my second batch I will be siphoning from the brew kettle to primary bucket through a venturi tube to introduce more air into the wort.
 
I would really like to read about these experiments, do you have a link?

"The tricky part is determining what your hop utilization is. Factors that effect hop utilization
are length of the boil, wort gravity, vigor of the boil, wort pH, age/condition of hops, hop form,
hopping rate, boiling temperature, shape of kettle, filtration losses, etc. Shorter boiling times, higher
wort gravity, increasing the hopping rate, fermenting with a more flocculent yeast and using hop bags
will generally lower hop utilization. Using pellets instead of whole flowers, using fresher hops, and
increasing wort pH will increase utilization. In general, the utilization achieved will be in the range of
20-35% under ideal conditions, with a vigorous 1 ½ hour boil and the hops boiling freely in the wort.
Extractions for homebrewers are generally estimated at 20%. The only way to calculate the actual
IBUs in a finished beer is through lab testing."

Can be found here: www.mgriesmeyer.com/doatest/bjcp/hop%20topics.pdf

"There are many other factors that affect the iso-alpha-acid utilization in beer, but most of them are very hard to quantify. The only method that even attempts to quantify any other effects is the Garetz method. Garetz recommends
Fhb= 1.0 for hops loose in the boil,
Fhb= 0.9 for hops in a hop bag, and
Fhb= 0.8 for hops in a hop bag stuffed full.
A yeast flocculation rate factor(Fyf ) of 0.95 is recommended for slow flocculation, 1.0 for average flocculation and 1.05 for fast flocculation. The filtration factor (Ffil) varies from 1.0 for no filtration to0.975 for aggressive filtration.

Found here: http://www.scribd.com/doc/47604590/zymurgy-IBUs

Garetz refers to Mark Garetz who wrote Using Hops: The Complete Guide to Hops for the Craft Brewer

I can't find anything quantitative online at the moment but if you look into Garetz's research you will see that utilization inside a hop bag is 80-90%. I think the most important thing when using a bag is to make sure it is submerged and make sure that it isn't very full. The hops need to come in full contact with the wort to increase utilization. Obviously, this is much easier without a bag.
 
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