Golden Dragon

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Flatspin

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2011
Messages
166
Reaction score
9
Location
Waconia
So I brewed a beer over the weekend and felt that I needed to share the recipe.

First, here’s the back story.

A couple months ago, I had bought a Belgian sampler six-pack at a local beer shop. It was a great purchase, some good beers and some not-so great. There was one in the pack called Gulden Draak, it was a really big complex beer and I loved it. So naturally, I decided to see if anyone had made a clone and put a recipe online. I found quite a few, and decided that if I was going to make something similar that I’d patch together pieces from all the other recipes. I don’t really want to call it a clone, because I don’t have enough brewing experience yet, or a palate refined enough, to identify all the subtleties in the original. So I decided to call it Golden Dragon, my guess as to what the translated name would be, and as I found during my recipe research, a name Northern Brewer had used for a similar beer intended as a clone.

OK, enough of me going on, here’s the recipe I used (In my own shorthand, not a conventional recipe layout):

3 gallon batch (I can only get 2.5 gallons to boil on my stovetop, and with such a big beer I didn’t want an overly concentrated boil – I don’t know if that makes any difference, but I wanted to be safe)

Partial mash:
1 lb Belgian CaraMunich Malt
1 lb Belgian Aromatic Malt
½ lb Belgian Biscuit Malt
½ lb Special B Malt
¼ lb Acidulated Malt

First wort hop (kettle filled up to 2.5 gallons):
½ oz Sterling Hops

60 minute addition:
4 lbs Pilsen DME

30 minute addition:
½ oz Styrian Goldings Hops

15 minute addition:
½ oz Sterling Hops
1 tsp Irish Moss

5 minute addition:
½ oz Styrian Goldings Hops

Cool, top fermenter up to 3 gallons, then add:
1 packet T-58 Dry Yeast
1 packet S-33 Dry Yeast
Note: I made something similar to a starter (water, 1/2 lb DME, both yeast packets) about 6 hours before addition. This was more to get the yeast working in a lower gravity solution before

About the time the krausen falls (after 2.5 days in this case), add the following to the fermenter:
1 lb Amber Candi Syrup
½ lb Brown Candi Sugar
½ lb Corn Sugar

The OG (adjusted for late sugar addition by using Hopville's Beer Calculus) came out to be 1.106, just slightly under the predicted 1.110. I'm guessing that I would have been dead on, but I topped up to 3 gallons and forgetting the late syrup/sugar addition, diluting the beer just a bit more than I planned. Oh well, more beer!

I took a hydrometer sample today. After 5 days (3 days after sugar additions), the gravity had dropped all the way down to 1.021, already below the calculated FG of 1.030. All I could think was that those were some hungry yeast! I tried a bit of the hydrometer sample, and it's already delicious. It has a fruity aroma, but the flavor is very complex with a warm alcohol bite, and reminds me of the original. Obviously I can't quite judge how close I came at this point, but I'm very pleased at this point.
 
So, I had two reasons for posting this.

First, I think that it will actually turn into a really good Belgian Dark Strong Ale (I plan to let it sit on the yeast cake for the next 3 months, then in he bottle for 6 months, so I won't know for sure until this fall), and wanted to share the recipe with any who are interested.

Second, I thought that there might be some good discussion on some of the questions that lingered in my mind as I was making this beer.

Some of the questions I had were:
- I know that concentrating the wort for the boil affects hop bitterness, but does it have any effect on malt flavor profiles?
- Can you increase complexity in the beer by using two different yeast strains, or will one overpower the other? If you can use more than one, do you add them at the same time or stagger their additions, and if staggered, how do you decide the order and timing of the additions.
- With a beer this size, and with so many character malts, I figured that the base malt would be well into the background, so I went with a DME. Do you think that subtle changes in the base malt (say actually mashing some Marris Otter or Pilsen malt) would be lost in a beer like this?
 
Back
Top