Weldless fitting leaking - Page 3

**conpewter** · 04-21-2008, 04:19 PM

Glad you got it worked out! The hole was drilled with a step bit to 7/8" per the spec on the Weld-B-Gone spigot you were buying.

I do find that everything seals much better if you do a few things.

#1 put the silicone o-ring on the outside (you don't need the one on the inside)

#2 screw the locknut onto the nipple fairly tight, put on the silicone O-ring and put it through the hole in the keggle, then add your washer and SS coupler on the inside.

#3 Tighten down the whole thing turning the coupling (so as not to hurt the O-ring)

#4 Put lots of pipe tape on the threads (as you've discovered) and screw on your ball-valve, after it's bottomed out, adjust the whole thing to have your handle vertical.

I like the weldless fittings but when I get my single tier all keg setup I may try to find a local welder, I've just balked at the cost.

**BrewBeemer** · 04-22-2008, 03:06 AM

If a odd sized ID or OD punch is needed that a hole punch set doesn't cover machine a sharp edge to a piece of metal tube on a lathe. I've found even without case hardening it can hold an edge if the material being punched is backed up against a block of lead.

**BrewBeemer** · 04-22-2008, 03:08 AM

If a odd sized ID or OD punched gasket is needed that a hole punch set doesn't cover machine a sharp edge to a piece of metal pipe or tube on the lathe. I've found even without case hardening the punch it will hold an edge if the material being punched is backed up against a block of lead.
How can I remove these double replies? Must have CRS.

Veng · 04-22-2008, 04:07 AM

wow, lots of great ideas.
I have some very nasty industrial stuff for a last resort.
Gor tex looks like a good plan. All NAPA had was rubberized
fiberboard stuff. Look like it's time to visit McMaster Carr site.
Also, I wondered about machining my own punch.
Lacking a lathe, maybe some patience and a sander, and heavy gloves!
Thanks guys!

dale1038 · 01-23-2010, 03:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by conpewter

Glad you got it worked out! The hole was drilled with a step bit to 7/8" per the spec on the Weld-B-Gone spigot you were buying.

I do find that everything seals much better if you do a few things.

#1 put the silicone o-ring on the outside (you don't need the one on the inside)

#2 screw the locknut onto the nipple fairly tight, put on the silicone O-ring and put it through the hole in the keggle, then add your washer and SS coupler on the inside.

#3 Tighten down the whole thing turning the coupling (so as not to hurt the O-ring)

#4 Put lots of pipe tape on the threads (as you've discovered) and screw on your ball-valve, after it's bottomed out, adjust the whole thing to have your handle vertical.

I like the weldless fittings but when I get my single tier all keg setup I may try to find a local welder, I've just balked at the cost.

See this would never work for me! My coupler in step 2 would never get past half way! Please read my post below.

....This is completely ridiculous. Building a keggle. I bought the weldless fitting from weldlessfittings.com.

We were very careful. Our hole is perfect. Right at 13/16th's. Worked on it all afternoon. Leaks!

Needless to say I've been pissed. I said 10 times, "should have just had it welded."

The only thing I can think is the midpoint of the nipple is bigger than the threads. Our midpoint gets put on one side of the keg wall or the other. This makes adjusting it INSANE!

If you put the midpoint of the nipple to the inside.......the coupling won't screw all the way to the midpoint of the nipple, PERIOD!

Almost seems like it's machined incorrectly. Is this normal?

Could our hole be too small?

Should the nipple pass freely through the hole?

My partner seems to think that the HUGE o-rings are to blame. We didn't get to mess with it a ton because it was getting dark. We are very competent do-it-your-selfers. Suggestions? Thank you!

AzironaZack · 01-23-2010, 04:57 AM

Here's one possible solution: ditch the o-rings and use flat silicon stock instead. Go to your local Bed Bath and Beyond, or Sheets and Things, or whatever house-wares store you can find and pick up a silicon baking sheet. They come in all shapes and sizes, but an 8x8 inch cake pan will cost less than $10.

Use the baking sheet as flat stock for making gaskets. If you use a proper gasket cutter then you can make very beautiful gaskets. If you use an exacto knife you can get gaskets, they just won't look so pretty.

See this thread:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/homemade-mlt-103458/

What's also nice is that you KNOW this stuff is food-safe. It's made for food. You also know (it says on the package) that it's good up to 500 degrees F. Since it's not an o-ring, it won't slip out of position. Hell of an idea, I think. I wish I had thought of it.

**BargainFittings** · 01-23-2010, 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dale1038

See this would never work for me! My coupler in step 2 would never get past half way! Please read my post below.

....This is completely ridiculous. Building a keggle. I bought the weldless fitting from weldlessfittings.com.

We were very careful. Our hole is perfect. Right at 13/16th's. Worked on it all afternoon. Leaks!

Needless to say I've been pissed. I said 10 times, "should have just had it welded."

The only thing I can think is the midpoint of the nipple is bigger than the threads. Our midpoint gets put on one side of the keg wall or the other. This makes adjusting it INSANE!

If you put the midpoint of the nipple to the inside.......the coupling won't screw all the way to the midpoint of the nipple, PERIOD!

Almost seems like it's machined incorrectly. Is this normal?

Could our hole be too small?

Should the nipple pass freely through the hole?

My partner seems to think that the HUGE o-rings are to blame. We didn't get to mess with it a ton because it was getting dark. We are very competent do-it-your-selfers. Suggestions? Thank you!

Weldless sets are made with NPT (pipe) thread fittings. The coupling will not thread all the way to the middle. They are not designed to do that. The thread is a tapered thread and will only go in so far.

The order of install on my sets would be (outside) Valve - optional washer |nipple through wall| oring - locknut - coupling. (inside)