Poisoning myself?

So I bought some parts for my mash tun. I decided to soak the brass parts in 2 cups of white vinegar and 1 cup of hydrogen peroxide. After 5 minutes, the parts got dull looking and there are some dark spots on the brass. Does this mean that I went too long and now it is exposing lead?

I am a bit paranoid and this is getting ridiculous. I just want to know the truth if this is safe or not? Should I rinse them in solution again? If so, for how long?

Should I just throw them away and going stainless steel?

Any ideas much appreciated! Help stop my paranoia!

From my favorite metallurgist:

Cleaning Brass
Some brewers use brass fittings in conjunction with their wort chillers or other brewing equipment and are concerned about the lead that is present in brass alloys. A solution of two parts white vinegar to one part hydrogen peroxide (common 3% solution) will remove tarnish and surface lead from brass parts when they are soaked for 5 minutes or less at room temperature. The brass will turn a buttery yellow color as it is cleaned. If the solution starts to turn green and the brass darkens, then the parts have been soaking too long and the copper in the brass is beginning to dissolve, exposing more lead. The solution has become contaminated and the part should be re-cleaned in a fresh solution.

John Palmer isn't just my favorite metallurgist, he's the only homebrewing metallurgist I know!

I have installed brass valves,water meters,ford couplings etc in water lines for 25 years.....not one of my customers has died of lead poisoning

unless you live in a bubble, you are exposed to much much worse things than the minuscule amount of lead in brass on any given day ....It WONT kill you...or make you have babies with 6 fingers.

So what are you saying Yooper, that I should soak the parts in the solution again? but for how long? and will the dark spots go away? will the dullness go away? I just want to know what to look for so I can get it over with and build my mash tun! It doesn't really help that I'm shade color blind. "Buttery yellow" ha! good luck with that!

I was thinking about going all stainless steel until I saw the prices today! DEAR LORD!! Expensive!

i soak mine in straight vinegar for about 15-20 minutes. last time my doctor checked, i'm still alive

More worried about cancer than death. Death is easy!

or neurological damage from lead poisoning!

If you are concerned about the lead in brass, buy stainless steel. Peace of mind is worth a couple of extra bucks.

There are several vendors on this site (bargainfittings comes to mind) that can likely supply SS parts for all your mash tun needs.

+1 to bargainfittings.

You're going to go blind or blow your house up any way with that infernal hobby.

Austin Homebrew has some deals on stainless steel ball valves as well. I just picked up a 3-piece for 15 bucks that I'll be using on my keggle (btw I am using brass fittings on my MLT, planning on doing the soak).

eon said:

So what are you saying Yooper, that I should soak the parts in the solution again? but for how long? and will the dark spots go away? will the dullness go away? I just want to know what to look for so I can get it over with and build my mash tun! It doesn't really help that I'm shade color blind. "Buttery yellow" ha! good luck with that!

I was thinking about going all stainless steel until I saw the prices today! DEAR LORD!! Expensive!

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I have no idea- I'm just reposting John Palmer's quotes from howtobrew.com. I'm not metallurgist- far from it. But he IS a metallurgist so I trust him.

Hey yooper, how'd that Surly Furious clone turn out? Is it finished yet?

eon said:

Hey yooper, how'd that Surly Furious clone turn out? Is it finished yet?

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Heck, yes! (That's my Napoleon Dynamite voice, in case it wasn't obvious!)

I posted a mini-review. My feeling (and Bob's) is that it's very good. But NOT cloned. The original has a slighly floral aroma to it that the clone does not, and mine is slightly darker. I'd have to lower the SRM by about 3 SRM but I'm not sure what to do about the slightly floral aroma. Its not obvious in the taste, but it's definitely there in the aroma. Maybe a slight centennial addition at 0 minutes would do it- I haven't really decided yet.

If the brass bothers you enough that you want to pickle it, you should probably just go stainless.

Hey yooper can you send me a link of the mini-review? I can't seem to find it.

eon said:

Hey yooper can you send me a link of the mini-review? I can't seem to find it.

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https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/surly-furious-clone-202104/#post2402047

It's not just mini- it's miniscule.

I'm still drinking them. Heck, it's Friday night and I'm entitled to have a "couple two tree" beers.

Anyway, I'm already sort of reformulating in my mind. I'm going to go about 3-5 SRM lighter (just dropping the dark malt some) but I'm not yet sure what I'm going to do about the lack of "floral" aroma I'm getting. I sort of like mine better in the aroma, but it's not a clone for sure!

You were right about it being miniscule! That's the one I read. So small, I didn't even think it was a review!

eon said:

You were right about it being miniscule! That's the one I read. So small, I didn't even think it was a review!

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Well, I drink you know. If you want a review, get the TV Guide.


I"m kidding, of course.

I decided to cut the black malt to 1 ounce, but I haven't really decided yet on the hopping changes. I mean, I really like this, and it's only lacking that slight floral character in the aroma. I just haven't yet decided on what I'm going to change.

Cool. well, sounds delicious either way. Keep us posted!

Hey, I sort of based my IPA recipe off of your DFH clone and from what I have read along with what you've told me about surly furious. Do you think my late addition hops plus the dry hopping will be overkill?

6 lbs. Light DME
1lbs. 8 oz. Golden Promise
1lbs. Crystal 40L

1.00 oz. Columbus @ 60 minutes
1.00 oz. Simcoe @ 15 minutes
1.00 oz. Amarillo @ 15 minutes
1.00 oz. Simcoe @ 5 minutes
1.00 oz. Amarillo @ 5 minutes
0.50 oz. Simcoe @ flame out
0.50 oz. Amarillo @ flame out
1.00 oz. Simcoe (DRY HOP)
1.00 oz. Amarillo (DRY HOP)

1 tsp. Irish Moss @ 30 minutes

Wyeast 1272 American Ale II or WLP 051

Heck, no. There's no such thing as "overkill" when you're talking about simcoe and amarillo hops!

Seriously, that's a great combo and I like the amounts. If you're concerned, take a sample before dryhopping and see if you want to use a full ounce of each. In some of my beers, I'll dryhop with .5 ounce of simcoe, and a full ounce of amarillo, because I want to lean towards the citrus and away from the pine. But a full ounce of each is good, too!

I LOVE hops so I think it looks great.

Cool. I think I'll cut down the simcoe to half an ounce or just dryhop with 2 ounces of Amarillo! I am also going for the citrus rather than pine.

Have you ever used Columbus for bittering? This will be my first time.

"A U.S. high-alpha hop. An intense, pungent, citrusy hop aroma similar to Cascade and Centennial. It also has a slight woody character. Used in American Ales."

I like the intense, pungent, citrusy hop aroma part. Not so thrilled about the "woody" character they describe.