Can a Brand New Corny Keg Handle 90 psi?

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This is for a scientific purpose. Also, if it can't handle 90 psi, it will just come out through the valve right? (It wouldn't explode right?)
 
Correct. I would still have it behind a blast shield, just in case, but the PRV should go first. My brand new kegs are rated for 130 PSI.
 
This is for a scientific purpose. Also, if it can't handle 90 psi, it will just come out through the valve right? (It wouldn't explode right?)

Not sure about the chinese ones, but the italian made ones should.

And if it fails, it's likely not going to be at the valve but in the side wall. and explode is probably a better way to describe it.
 
I guess I should clarify on failure - I'm not considering the pressure relief going to be a failure.
 
The PRV in a corny keg is designed to release the pressure when it gets above ~60 psi. Unless the PRV is malfunctioning, or you take the PRV out and plug the hole (not recommended) you're not going to be able to get the pressure up to 90 psi.

So I guess the answer to your question about it exploding, is that it's not very likely at all. I don't know what the chances of the keg exploding are if you tamper with the safety valve so that it doesn't release the pressure, but it's dangerous enough that I strongly encourage you against doing so.
 
I read a post about this guy whose valve leaked at 110...
Does it have to do with the age?

But in any case, the valve will go off far before the thing fails right?
 
I read a post about this guy whose valve leaked at 110...
Does it have to do with the age?

But in any case, the valve will go off far before the thing fails right?

Yes age can cause the valve to not open (from not check its operation) or open too soon due to a weak spring. This also assumes you don't blow a hose first before reaching the 130 limit.

What is the maximum limit on a beverage CO2 Regulator any way? I know the powertank regulator goes to 200psi.
 
it would be safe to test the valve by letting the keg pressurize while I stood at a safe distance inside my home right?
 
it would be safe to test the valve by letting the keg pressurize while I stood at a safe distance inside my home right?

Probably. I've never had a PRV fail to go off before. The only problem I've ever had was having one go off too soon.... as in while I was trying to pressurize my keg. :)

Still, I'd suggest setting your regulator to no more than, say 50 psi and going around the corner, just to be safe.
 
Ok. I've finally decided to go to 75 psi and go around a corner; i'm hoping a brand new keg should at least be able to handle that.
 
Now I'm curious, what's the "scientific purpose"?

For a science project, I'm investigating the effect of air pressure on the efficiency of a Stirling engine (an external combustion engine in which the expansion and contraction of a gas due to a difference in temperature moves a piston).

Well, don't forget that PRVs are supposedly set to go off before 75 PSI, so you might not get that high.

I might, I might not. I've read a post on these forums on someone whose valve leaked at 100 psi, and he was trying to push it to 110.
I'm REALLY hoping it gets to 75 though.

Edit: Is there a difference between AEB Italian kegs and the Chinese stuffs? I've read an article saying the AEB kegs fail at a higher pressure (both failed after 130 though)
 
Usually they calculate a safety margin of error (for any defects that might get past QC). They might say a keg is maxed out at 130psi however if they did a proper test it went boom at 160psi. When items get UL Listed the UL Lab take the products well beyond its intended use.

Edit: So are you running a sterling engine inside a keg? At any rate now you have to post a video of what you are up to.
 
Usually they calculate a safety margin of error (for any defects that might get past QC). They might say a keg is maxed out at 130psi however if they did a proper test it went boom at 160psi. When items get UL Listed the UL Lab take the products well beyond its intended use.

Edit: So are you running a sterling engine inside a keg? At any rate now you have to post a video of what you are up to.

At any rate, I'm not going near 130.

And I'll post a vid hopefully once I'm done.
 
Why not just use an air compressor for this? Mine has a tank pressure of about 110, and can can easily deliver 90 psi to air tools continuously. Is there a reason this must be done using a corny?
 
Kind of irrelevant, but would this tubing be fine for 75-90 psi?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E62TCC/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I wouldn't use it for those pressures. Several manufacturers of vinyl tubing of the same size and wall thickness stipulate maximum working pressures of 45-50 psi. Use a thicker walled tubing with nylon reinforcement for higher pressures.

http://www.amazon.com/Braid-Reinforced-PVC-Tubing-Length/dp/B000FMWEPM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1387864335&sr=8-1&keywords=reinforced+vinyl+tubing+5%2F16%22
 
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Why not just use an air compressor for this? Mine has a tank pressure of 110, can can easily deliver 90 psi to air tools continuously. Is there a reason this must be done using a corny?

The OP needs a chamber they can set the engine up in which can then be pressurized.
 
I wouldn't use it for those pressures. Several manufacturers of vinyl tubing of the same size and wall thickness stipulate maximum working pressures of 45-50 psi. Use a thicker walled tubing with nylon reinforcement for higher pressures.

http://www.amazon.com/Braid-Reinforced-PVC-Tubing-Length/dp/B000FMWEPM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1387864335&sr=8-1&keywords=reinforced+vinyl+tubing+5%2F16%22

Is this fine?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004CR4OP4/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
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That should work fine if you have hose barbs big enough. Most CO2 regs and corny QD's have either 1/4" or 5/16" barbs. You never want the ID of the tubing to be larger than the barb. Use either the same size tubing, or one size smaller than the barb to ensure a good seal.

Here's the same product in 1/4" ID-
http://www.amazon.com/LDR-516-B1410-10-Feet-Braided/dp/B008VO5YF8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1387918042&sr=8-3&keywords=1%2F4%22+id+braided+tubing
 
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That should work fine if you have hose barbs big enough. Most CO2 regs and corny QD's have either 1/4" or 5/16" barbs. You never want the ID of the tubing to be larger than the barb. Use either the same size tubing, or one size smaller than the barb to ensure a good seal.

Here's the same product in 1/4" ID-
http://www.amazon.com/LDR-516-B1410-10-Feet-Braided/dp/B008VO5YF8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1387918042&sr=8-3&keywords=1%2F4%22+id+braided+tubing

Ok, I'll buy that.
Thanks.
 
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This is the post I was talking about a while ago:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/corny-110psi-seltzer-272171/

I don't know how, but this guy got his keg to 100 psi.
I'm not taking it quite that high, but I figure a brand new Italian keg should be able to handle at least 75.
I'll test it to 130 (or however high it can go until the valve hopefully opens) before I do anything, and I'll be standing close to a hundred feet away inside a building during this test.
 
I don't know how, but this guy got his keg to 100 psi.
I'm not taking it quite that high, but I figure a brand new Italian keg should be able to handle at least 75.
I'll test it to 130 (or however high it can go until the valve hopefully opens) before I do anything, and I'll be standing close to a hundred feet away inside a building during this test.

Yeah... definitely want something between you and the keg in case the PRV doesn't do it's job.
 
A heavy moving blanket will also help slow/trap debris if you want to add a second layer to control collateral damage.

I have always wanted to build a hot air engine so I am really interested in seeing how it runs under pressure. Supposedly Ford and AMC had prototypes in small cars that they were able to drive around the city with it.
 
I will add, i've put 110psi in a corny before to shoot hot water at the sat dish on my roof to get snow off...
 

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