Worth the Upgrade?

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MX1

Texas Ale Works
Joined
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Good Morning,
I got a question, I am set on a High Gravity system, the 15g BIAB with Wort Hog controller.

Is the SS BrewTech kettle worth the upgrade?

T
 
Worth it in what way, and compared to what?

I have a Spike kettle, like it a lot. Part of the reason is I don't care for weldless fittings. SSBrewtech's 15-gallon kettle has them. Spike does the welded fittings, and do it well. But SS Brewtech also includes a ball valve where it's extra with the Spike, and they have two pre-drilled holes which you may use later to add a thermometer, recirculation port whatever.

But that said, Spike's ports are 1/2" ID, which means for fast movement of water and wort; SSBrewtech's are, from what I can tell on their site, perhaps 3/8".

If money is dear, the SSBrewtech is a better buy; if heavy-dutiest is your goal, then IMO the Spike is a better offering, but it's going to cost you more as you'll need to buy things like a valve, dip tube, and perhaps other things.

You can brew good beer with both.
 
I'm not sure what you'd be getting that would make it worth an extra $136. As an owner of a Blichmann Riptide, and seeing what others do with other types of pumps, I'd suggest putting that money toward the Riptide than toward a kettle that doesn't look like it's going to do anything better.

My 2 cents.
 
  • Both options you're looking at are 15 gallon stainless kettles. SsB has more of a bling factor and is likely a little higher quality, but either should achieve their purpose: hold wort.
  • Both have a ball valve output near the base of the kettle, though the SsB kettle has a 3-piece that's easier to disassemble for cleaning (I don't know if they swap it out for this system). It offers a little more peace of mind, but if you choose to go with the Bayou, the valve can always be upgraded for ~$20 later.
  • The Bayou has one weldless port on the kettle and one in the lid for recirculation during the mash. The SsB kettle has 3 weldless ports on the kettle (none in the lid) that can be used for a thermometer/recirculation/etc. I don't know how you're chilling, but having a recirculation port on the kettle is pretty convenient for me since I whirlpool with an immersion chiller. If you're remotely handy with tools, you can always make another hole in the Bayou if needed. I think the bit is ~$25, plus the added cost of whatever bulkhead components you choose.
  • An extra thought beyond the scope of the initial question: you can always find a qualified welder to convert over to (sanitary!) welded fittings if you find you don't like weldless. It'll likely bump the price up, but the option is available.
If you're looking to save the money (or apply it towards other gear) then the financial decision is probably in favor of the Bayou kettle. That said, I really like my SsB kettle. Since I brew as a hobby, "like" wins out over "financial sense" just about every time.
 
I am a "hobby" brewer as well, been brewing for 10ish years.
I have pumps, I have extra 3 piece ball valves, I have no issues with weldless, I would prefer welded, but it really is a "whatever" kinda thing.

I am asking now, if the SsB kettle comes with the lid mounted recirculation.
and I have a plate chiller, but might switch to counter-flow, not sure yet.

I think the main thing I like about the SsB Kettle are the volume markings and it, to me, just looks cleaner.....but the savings are equal to a kegco 3 roller mill....and I need to replace my Barley Crusher......

This set-up will be a replacement for a 2 vessel rig that I currently own / trying to sell due to space requirements

thanks for all the input.
 
Alot of the electric BIAB rigs I've seen have moved to insulate the kettle with refletix or foam rubber to increase efficiency and cut time. If you think that you might go that route, then the bling factor won't matter.
 
just got word, that they install the recirculation in the lid of both kettles.
 
ok, some more talking and research has brought me to this:

The main reason I wanted the SsB was the internal volume markings - which would be off/wrong due to the displacement of the Boil Coil that is added to the pot.

and with the savings, I can get a new grain mill, and for just a little bit more an 18qt graduated container, the clear restaurant kind, to track volumes.

Verdict: no kettle upgrade.

Thanks to all that helped

MX1
 
One other thought (even though you've already decided):

I had the same internal debate as you. I still haven't made a purchase but ultimately I decided to build my own system similar to the HG one in concept. Spike has a kettle design that they sent me that's specifically for a recirculating BIAB. All welded fitting, triclamp heating element, etc. It has the drain port, the heating element port, a whirlpool port and the wort return port at the top.

I decided I'd go with that combined with a utah biodiesel mesh basket and a controller from auber. I think it'll be a better quality rig for similar cost.

I hate weldless fittings, so building around a Spike kettle was a key element.

All that being said, I'm also considering a two vessel K-RIMS setup. I have a 10G Brewbuilt welded port kettle already. Add a Spike kettle, heating element, false bottom and controller and I'm set up for two vessel K-RIMS that doesn't have the gravity and batch size limitations of recirculating BIAB (at the expense of a larger rig that is, perhaps, a bit more complicated).
 
I have a 2 vessel multi mode electric rig now, built on 2 custom 15 gallon pots. I thought about building, again, this would be #3 or 4 but just don't want to. I am either way about weld/ weldless so not really a huge factor.

My current setup is just to big for my new garage, so I am trying to sell it at a big loss, but it needs to go.

I will look into the spike kettle and balance it with what I have on hand
 
You may want to keep or pick up an extra ball valve to add to the outlet side of the pump. Speaking with Dave at HG after I had a “stuck sparge” during recirculating mash, this was his suggestion.

After doing so however, my next brew had another “stuck sparge” and ending up scorching the wort due to the dry element. I’m waiting on a 400 micron bag now to see if that will solve the problem (bag that comes with the system is 210 micron).

My next brew will be non-recirculating. I’ve not been happy with either of the two brews I have made that are on tap although my Bmc friends like one of them fine. The most recent I just scorched is still in the fermenter.

I’m glad I bough the system and think it is well worth the money (I bought it with the bayou kettle). The 220 element works very nice and the PiD controller is super easy to use and works nice as well.
 
I read your post about the 210 micron bag and will replace it with a @wilserbrewer bag as soon as I get the system here and can measure the insert.

And I am using my own pumps and it already has the ball valve.

Thanks for the input

MX1
 
Just finished my "non-recirculating" mash. Wrapped in a blanket the kettle lost 2º in 60 mins. I am pleased with that. My Pre boil gravity is 1.050. My grain bill is 12 pounds of American 2 Row and 14 ounces of Crystal Malt 10L. According to the recipe I am brewing the OG should be in the neighborhood of 1.067 when I am done with the 60 minute boil. It does not say what percentage efficiency that is figured at and I do not know how to calculate it.
 
... "non-recirculating" mash... lost 2º in 60 mins... OG should be in the neighborhood of 1.067 when I am done with the 60 minute boil....

Minimal technology, minimal noise, minimal hassles, and a great outcome. Sounds like it was a nice brew day.

Simplicity has great benefits.
 
Yes it was. Ended up at 1.060 again (second brewing of this all grain kit). I’m assuming since this is made for a one hour fly sparge according to the recipe, I need to rank my grains up a little to compensate for BIAB. Grain crush was .025.
 
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