Whole Leaf Hops for BIAB

[FlabbyRoach]

So I have approximately 12 ounces of hops from my yard last year. I dried them out for three days and then used food-saver to package them.
I have been brewing BIAB for three years now and have only used whole leaf hops once in that time. Last time I used the hops they sucked up a lot of wort so this time I going to use hop bags with each addition and squeeze them like crazy before the wort goes into the fermenter.

My question is this: What it the best way to add the hops without adding too much oxygen to them as I have read that oxygen is worse for leaf hops? I read where it is better to kneed the hops before adding to wort but won’t that add additional oxygen?

I am planning on using 2-1/2 oz first wort and then add 2-1/2 oz more at 30 minutes and 2-1/2 oz at 15 minutes and then 2-1/2 oz at five minutes then the balance at flameout.

I will use pellet hops for dry hop additions at 2nd day of fermentation and the another dry hop addition at 7 days for another week.

Just trying to figure out if I just poked a whole in the bags and then kneed the hops or just say screw it and open and throw in.

I am making an IPA with 12 pounds of Marris Otter and 2-1/2 pounds of Caravienna malts.

Next year I should have even more home grown hops so any info,would be helpful.

Thanks and cheers.

 

[IslandLizard]

BIAB is a mashing technique, once you pull the bag out, it's like any other brew.
You don't have to worry (much) about air/oxygen exposure during the boil. The little bit that gets in will boil off fast.

When transferring your chilled wort to your fermenter, splashing/spraying to incorporate oxygen (from air) is actually recommended. IOW, you want to aerate or oxygenate your chilled wort, either before or right after pitching yeast, for better yeast health and growth. This is especially true when using liquid yeasts. Dry yeast don't benefit or not much from chilled wort aeration, according to their manufacturers. I haven't seen any concrete proof of that.

Once fermentation ends you do want to prevent air/oxygen exposure. It kills hop sensation. This is important when you're dry hopping and when kegging/bottling.

Depending on how fast you're able to chill at flameout, instead of flameout hops it may be more advantageous to use a hopstand (or "whirlpool" hops) at reduced temps after flameout for a longer time. Such as 15-30' at 170-150F.

 

[FlabbyRoach]

Thanks for the reply.