Whirlpooling and chilling

[jodell]

Here is a question I have searched for ans cannot find a solid answer for

Does anybody know the the best time to whirlpool as far as the hop/trub cone is concerned?

I know there is a lot about hot side aeration and things like that. But is it best to hot whirlpool, cold whirlpool, or whirlpool while chilling the keep a tight cone and drain clear wort?

I have never whirlpooled but I just bought a kettle with a whirlpool port, and I have a CFC that I have always recirculated back into my keggle

 

[TheMadKing]

I use a recirculation pump to whirlpool starting as soon as the boil is over until it's chilled.

Whirlpooling for hop additions occurs between 170-140F to prevent hop isomerization while maximizing oil extraction.

So my usual process is to kill the flame, turn on the whirlpool pump, turn the chiller on and wait for the temp to hit 170. Then I turn my chiller water off, add my hops, and keep it circulating for about 20 minutes. Then I turn my chill water back on until it's down to pitch temp. The recirc/whirlpool pump is on the entire time.

 

[govner1]

Here is a question I have searched for ans cannot find a solid answer for

Does anybody know the the best time to whirlpool as far as the hop/trub cone is concerned?

I know there is a lot about hot side aeration and things like that. But is it best to hot whirlpool, cold whirlpool, or whirlpool while chilling the keep a tight cone and drain clear wort?

I have never whirlpooled but I just bought a kettle with a whirlpool port, and I have a CFC that I have always recirculated back into my keggle

I chill (CFC) & whirlpool at the same time.
At flameout I gently begin a manual whirlpool, put on the lid & set up my connections to my pump & CFC.
I keep the return at least 2-3" below the surface of the wort to avoid any hot side aeration.
I monitor the temp in my BK as well as on the wort coming from my CFC (Thrumometer). The trub tends to coalesce more in the center as you approach temps below 100.

 

[jodell]

I chill (CFC) & whirlpool at the same time.
At flameout I gently begin a manual whirlpool, put on the lid & set up my connections to my pump & CFC.
I keep the return at least 2-3" below the surface of the wort to avoid any hot side aeration.
I monitor the temp in my BK as well as on the wort coming from my CFC (Thrumometer). The trub tends to coalesce more in the center as you approach temps below 100.

So you did notice the cone coming apart after it cooled? I am brewing a hefeweizen on some new equipment as soon as it all comes in so I'll get to test this all out but wanted to hear some experience

EDIT: whoops read that wrong, it forms a tight cone after cooling

 

[govner1]

The come comes together as it cools. At about 80°F the material settles to the bottom of the kettle.

 

[Hammy71]

I begin circulating at 15 minutes to go. This sanitizes the pump and lines with boiling wort. After flameout, I monitor the temperature. Once the beer nears 200F I start running water through my 50' immersion chiller. I've found starting the cooling below 200F, my chances of chill haze increase. I then leave the whirlpool and chiller running til I get to pitching temperatures. I'm lucky that my well water is well below 50F. Once I reach temp. I turn off the whirlpool and the water going to the chiller. Wait about 15 minutes and begin to fill my carboys. There is always a nice "pile" of trub and other hop materials left behind. To compensate for my lost "contact time" with the whirlpool hops, I double the dosage. For my system, I'd rather fork out the extra bucks for the hops, and get clear beer at the same time. It's what works for me.....you results may vary. For what it's worth, I bottled off of the kegger one of my pale ales for Xmas. I was happy, surprised, and proud to get the same feedback from everyone. "When I openned the bottle...the smell of citrus filled the room!!" Score!.......