What to do when destroying amylase in fermenter and transffering to bottles

[Brew_Meister_General]

I had a stuck fermentation due to unconverted starch and subsequently pitched VinClasse's Amylase.

Now that I'm ready to bottle I imagine I will have to heat my wort to 77c to destroy the enzymes which will undoubtedly kill my yeast, but would this have severe repercussions?

Should I then transfer it back to my fermenter and wait for the dead yeast to fall out?

After that I imagine I'll just re-pitch the yeast that was already in there and wait a few days. Is that a sound theory or is there a better way?

Thanks.

 

[jwalk4]

I've never heard of any one using that product in beer, only wine.

What was your stuck gravity?

 

[Gavin C]

There is a better way.

Bottle as normal.

Your reasoning is flawed.

 

[jwalk4]

wait nvm... I didn't read carefully.

 

[passedpawn]

Let it ferment to the end of fermentation. Then bottle without worry. You don't need to denature the AE.

 

[moors]

I did some experiments with amylase. The enzymes convert some of the long-chain sugars into simple sugars, which are then processed by the yeast. The result is the yeasts have more sugar to process in exchange for complex sugars. Complex sugars usually don't contribute sweetness, but may contribute mouthfeel or other attributes. In my experiments, the amylase didn't change anything appreciably. Perhaps my wort didn't contain enough complex sugars to make a difference.

Other than giving your yeast more to eat, the enzymes will NOT affect your yeasts. Enzymes only convert complex sugars to simple sugars, which yeast can eat.

DO NOT heat your beer! Alcohol will evaporate, hop oils will either disintegrate or evaporate, and yeast cells will pop, spilling all sorts of cellular matter into the beer. The beer will be irreparably damaged. Leave the enzymes in the beer. Once sugars are converted, the enzymes are still present, but dormant.

The removal of complex sugars may (or may not) affect your outcome, depending on the makeup of your wort.

What's your recipe? If you are using a lot of extracts, then you probably won't detect any affects of the enzymes. If you have a complex recipe with lots of grains, you might notice your final beer is a bit dry.

 

[Brew_Meister_General]

What was your stuck gravity?

Let it ferment to the end of fermentation. Then bottle without worry. You don't need to denature the AE.

What's your recipe? If you are using a lot of extracts, then you probably won't detect any affects of the enzymes. If you have a complex recipe with lots of grains, you might notice your final beer is a bit dry.

It was stuck at 32 down from 70, and I mean 'waited a week and nothing happened' stuck, that and the unsettling presence of starch.

My main concern it that it will indeed ferment too dry and make my beer too alcoholic. It's currently bubbling several times a minute, having dropped 6 points in about 3 days.

I just wonder if theres anyway I get rid of the enzyme apart from boiling really.

 

[moors]

I just wonder if theres anyway I get rid of the enzyme apart from boiling really.

From "yeast - The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation" by Chris White. Go buy it! It's an excellent book.

"The fundamental problem with adding enzymes to fermentation ... is that the enzymes retain their full activity. They will continue to break down starches and dextrins, completely drying out the beer ... the only reasonable way for a brewer to stop enzyme activity is to pasteurize the beer ... Adding enzymes to a stalled high-gravity fermentation often restarts fermentation. As expected, the enzymes continue to work, but the high alcohol concentration prevents the yest from working, even as the enzymes make new fermentable sugar available."

According to the author, the yeast attenuation may stop and your beer will still retain some non-fermented residual sugars. Alternativly, it may dry out completely. This is wholly dependent on your recipe, on your combination of complex and simple sugars in your starting ingredients.

In my experiments, I made 1L batches using DME, with and without enzymes. There was no detectable difference. I hypothesize that the DME didn't have many complex sugars, so the enzyme contribution was negligible. I was using a Wyeast Ale yeast. Ale yeasts strains can ferment moderately complex sugars such as maltotriose, which is probably about the most complex sugar in the DME. So there wasn't anything leftover for the enzymes to convert. The ultimate yeast is the Saison, which can ferment more complex sugars.

I could re-create my experiment using Champagne yeast, which would isolate the simple sugars. Champagne yeast does not ferment complex sugars. So a batch made with Champagne yeast would leave all of the moderate and complex sugars intact, whereas the batch made with an enzyme additive would process all of the sugars.

Pasteurization requires a lot of specialized equipment to perform properly without destroying your beer. It should be sealed and pressurized. You'll still lose a lot (or all) hop flavor and aroma. It is far better (and cheaper) to finish your beer as-is. It might be a bit dry (or it might not be), but it's better than destroying the whole batch when you could be otherwise enjoying some homemade beer.

_________________________________________

Keg 1: 60°L Pilgrim/Cascade IPA
Key 2: Munich Helles
Fermenter: Big 9oz'er Palisade/Mosaic APA
On Deck: Saccharomyces Boulardii APA

 

[bigdaddybrew]

Let fermentation finish. It will probably be very dry then bottle as normal. There are many beer styles that finish dry...lesson learned. The bigger question is why did the fermentation stop? Mash temp? Underpitched yeast?

 

[Brew_Meister_General]

Let fermentation finish. It will probably be very dry then bottle as normal. There are many beer styles that finish dry...lesson learned. The bigger question is why did the fermentation stop? Mash temp? Underpitched yeast?

I didn't convert all the starch to sugar, I did an iodine test and it came out blue (still does) so amylase seemed like the best/only option.

I'm just trying to think of ways to counter the dryness, like adding caramelised sugars by steeping a darker malt and then adding that to the fermenter.

That and increase the level of chloride from 50 (1:1) to 75 (1.5:1).