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What size hose?

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donshizzles

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So I have converted a 10 gallon iGloo mash tun utilizing the parts from the Wiki on this site. If I have a 3/8" male barb on the outside what size hose do I need to get to fit on that? 3/8" or 1/2" ? I get confused with ID and OD when it comes to this.
 
I think 3/8. Just go to lowes and find a 3/8" barb and test it on some hose. The hose is usually right under or near the fittings.
 
If you have a 3/8 barb.....you need 3/8 ID tubing. This makes for a tight fit which is what you want.
 
Absolutely..........

I use Norprene and have had excellent results. It's a little on the expensive side though. Some people prefer to use plain old silicone rubber tubing.....which comes in food grade and is tolerant of high temps......however, from the research that I've done.....the plain old silicone tubing will break down and become gummy over time from exposure to high temps. Norprene is designed specifically for high temp food and beverage operations and the best on the market........from what I've found anyway.

Here's a link to the supplier I used:

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23886&catid=571
 
Slightly off topic.

I converted my 10 Gallon rubbermaid cooler using 3/8 inch fitings as well, but my HLT and Boiler are 1/2 Inch. I normally double batch sparge and was wondering if changing to a 1/2 fitting on the MLT would decrease my sparge times. Even wide open the 3/8 inch fitting can flow pretty slow and as I understand with a double batch sparge process the speed of your runnings is only a consideration for getting stuck batches not in your efficiency.
Also, for information I have a SS False bottom in the cooler.

Does anyone know if you can run 1/2 inch fittings with a rubbermaid cooler? I've always seen instructions using 3/8 inch fittings. Anything else to be worried about?

Just tying to cut batch times.

Thanks,

Mike
 
Slightly off topic.

Does anyone know if you can run 1/2 inch fittings with a rubbermaid cooler? I've always seen instructions using 3/8 inch fittings. Anything else to be worried about?


In all reality, you can use whatever size fitting you want. However, the faster you drain, the higher the possibility of a stuck sparge. I do batch sparges myself, and although some of the reading out there claims that fast draining does not effect efficiency when batch sparging.....I find this not to be the case from my personal experience. Check out this reading if you have the time.......you might find it interesting. Basically, it has to do with how to get maximum efficiency from your mash. Good stuff.

http://www.brewingtechniques.com/library/backissues/issue3.4/palmer.html
 
Hi Shaggy,

Let me know if I figured out what the article said.

In a nutshell, you need the pressure under the false bottom being relieved by the ball valve to be greater than the pressure of the wort passing through the holes of the false bottom. Basically, creating a back pressure being held slightly by the ball valve. Anytime the presure is less under the false bottom than above the false bottom, you will lose efficiency.

Did I get that right?

Thanks,

Mike
 
In an attempt to keep from jacking this thread.....why don't you send me private messages if you have more questions.

Thanks
 
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