O-Ale-Yeah
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- Jan 3, 2019
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You're not that brand new:Forgive me, I'm brand new to brewing.
Welcome to the hydrometer, though!_______________
1st brew is gone. 2nd brew is in bottles. 3rd brew is in the fermenter.
I haven't. I'll do that. Thanks.1.012.Correction: 1.010
'Read' the bottom of the meniscus.
Have you calibrated it with distilled water? I think most tap water will suffice too. Just have it at the 'calibration temp' that's usually printed on the bottom of the paper scale. 60°F is most common, some are 68°F.
Is the OG the only way to know what the AVB is?The hydrometer indicates you have beer. Not too dry, not too sweet and looks like a golden wheat.
If that's the final gravity you expected the next step is carbing. Enjoy.
Yeah, maybe not. This is my 3rd brew. I think I need to switch to a new yeast. I just bottled 90 bottles of banana beer. I'm not really a fan of bananas.You're not that brand new:
Welcome to the hydrometer, though!
It's the only practical way for a homebrewer.Is the OG the only way to know what the AVB is?
Is the OG the only way to know what the AVB is?
Just dotting the i's... We brewers typically note specific gravity (SG) in 3 decimals, so 1.060 and 1.010 resp.Ok my OG was 1.06 and FG is 1.01
Lol, not at all. I was confused thinking the hydrometer would tell me the AVB after fermentation. I knew something was wrong because I knew I didn't brew 1% AVB beer.I'd have to say, i thought this was a troll thread at first....The first pic shows a hydrometer clearly reading "BEER"...and someone asking what it meant....lol
If you find the hydrometer not to read 1.000 in plain (or distilled) water at its calibration temp, make a note of the difference and subtract or add to any sample you measure. Say it reads 1.002 at calibration, then it reads 2 points high. Just subtract those 2 points from a reading. If it reads 1.046, it's really 1.044.
Other than the specific gravity (SG) and Brix scales the other scales are pretty useless and confusing. The alcohol scale is meant for wine (or cider) as they typically ferment out to 0.995-1.000 and give you an indication of the alcohol potential when you're measuring their OG.Lol, not at all. I was confused thinking the hydrometer would tell me the AVB after fermentation. I knew something was wrong because I knew I didn't brew 1% AVB beer.
Absolutely!One note on this.
If the paper slip inside has shifted, yes.
If there's something else going on (say part of the glass chipped/shaved off or something), the whole scale could be off and calibration may not be so easy.
I would check TWO solutions (at reference temp). One to see if distilled water reads 1.000. I'd also make a 10% by weight solution of sucrose (ie table sugar) in distilled water (ie 10 grams table sugar to 90 grams of distilled water). That should read 1.040.
Two point calibration > single point.
If they're both correct, gravy. If they're both off by the same measure, easy, just add/subtract the differential. If one is off but the other isn't you could either calculate the slope from here on out or just replace it.
Just solve the algebra in reverse.
1.010Forgive me, I'm brand new to brewing. I'm not sure what this means.
for further reference in term...its ABVLol, not at all. I was confused thinking the hydrometer would tell me the AVB after fermentation. I knew something was wrong because I knew I didn't brew 1% AVB beer.
excellent description/instruction...I keep mine (all my measuring equipment...hydrometers, thermometer in their packing tubes ) and test jar in a length of foam pipe insulation inside a harbor freight hard case .Just dotting the i's... We brewers typically note specific gravity (SG) in 3 decimals, so 1.060 and 1.010 resp.
Also be aware, if you measure a carbonated sample, the reading will not be correct, due to the buoyancy of CO2. You can let it sit for an hour or so to degas. Or just shake or stir the sample a bit or invert a few times in your hydrometer jar (without the hydrometer in it of course). It will foam up, let it settle and do again a little later until there's no more foaming. Then drop the hydrometer in it. Spin it to dislodge any clinging bubbles.
If you find the hydrometer not to read 1.000 in plain (or distilled) water at its calibration temp, make a note of the difference and subtract or add to any sample you measure. Say it reads 1.002 at calibration, then it reads 2 points high. Just subtract those 2 points from a reading. If it reads 1.046, it's really 1.044.
When you encounter unexpected readings, recheck calibration. Sometimes the paper sleeve inside slides, or something else is happening.
Notes:
Last but not least, here's our official broken hydrometer compendium.
- They are extremely fragile instruments, very thin glass, so handle with utter care.
- They tend to roll when placed upon a horizontal surface and drop to the ground or in the sink, etc.
- Do not shake them down to 'dry.' That clinging drop won't throw off a reading in a 3 oz. sample.
- Make sure the bottom of the storage sleeve is solid. If it's a stopper, tape it down to the sleeve. I'm not kidding.
- Use a stable test jar. The narrower-footed ones tend to tip over when you look at them. I use a cheap 2-piece plastic test jar, the relatively wide and stable bottom screws off for cleaning.
- Don't return the sample. Drink it, it's giving you a decent early feedback of what to expect.
You can somewhat reverse engineer an approximate OG if you have both a refractometer and hydrometer. I don't know the formula offhand, but there is a formula to approximate hydrometer FG using OG and (inaccurate due to presence of alcohol) refractometer FG. Just solve the algebra in reverse.
ABV = [277.8851 – 277.4(SG) + 0.9956(Brix) + 0.00523(Brix2) + 0.000013(Brix3)] x (SG/0.79)
Lol, not at all. I was confused thinking the hydrometer would tell me the AVB after fermentation. I knew something was wrong because I knew I didn't brew 1% AVB beer.
Is Brix2 == Brix * Brix? (and Brix3 == Brix * Brix * Brix)?
^^^^^^^Forgive me, I'm brand new to brewing. I'm not sure what this means.
I'd say so. Unless you're using a German weissbier strain that is intentionally used for banana, banana ester indicates the fermentation temp is too high for whatever yeast you're using.I think I need to switch to a new yeast. I just bottled 90 bottles of banana beer. I'm not really a fan of bananas.
Yeah, I used a hefeweizen yeast. I like Weihenstephaner Hefeweizen so I thought I'd give it a shot but mine doesn't taste much like Weihenstephaner Hefeweizen.^^^^^^^
See how much we all love to teach?
All kinds of questions answered you didn't even ask!
I'd say so. Unless you're using a German weissbier strain that is intentionally used for banana, banana ester indicates the fermentation temp is too high for whatever yeast you're using.
Pick a yeast whose optimal range fits your ambient... keeping in mind that fermentation generates heat and will be warmer than ambient temp.
Or you could use some method of keeping the fermentation cool. On a limited budget, "swamp coolers" are easy and effective. Either evaporative cooling (tray of water, t-shirt over the fermenter with the bottom in the water) or a water bath with occasional ice are good methods. Monitor the temperature, either way.
Cheers
Or you can just use OG-1, which for most beers is accurate enough for homebrewers.
1.060-1 = 0.06 = 6%
Yeah, I used a hefeweizen yeast. I like Weihenstephaner Hefeweizen so I thought I'd give it a shot but mine doesn't taste much like Weihenstephaner Hefeweizen.
Notes:They tend to roll when placed upon a horizontal surface and drop to the ground or in the sink, etc
My proudest accomplishment as a brewer is that I've never broken a hydrometer in 11 years of brewing. It's nice to excel at something.
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